RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Back from the boonies just now.

No new tensioner arms yet.

Got some M3mm stainless pan-head hex bolts and nylock nuts.
A mix of 10mm and 12mm long so I can cover all eventualities.
Going to secure the stiffeners to the rear first using 2 part epoxy & clamps. Then drill the bolt holes.

Once they are done I will clamp the rails in place on the main hull and square it off to the fixed points on each corner.
Thats all I can do to ensure the idlers are square and in line.
The epoxy will allow me enough time to square the assembly then clamp in positon ready to bolt once dry.

Sounds simple when you say it quick eh !!

At last my S$%#t is together !
Secured the stiffeners over the epoxy.
No movement any time soon.
Still have to place the lower section and fill the gaps, but it could run as it is.
Measuring from datum marks between the drive & idler centres, cross measuring off the sponson corners, and to two marks scribed on the sponson pre-cut to the rear plate mounting holes I'm within a mm.

The bolts are placed so as to miss the track run on the inner edge, and the lower row be hidden by the roadwheels.

The interesting bit will be getting the tensioner to fit and operate.
THEN I can cut the upper hull(not looking forward to that)

Been mulling over how to secure the front of the hull to the lower once the alterations are complete.
The front plate is slightly bowed, so I etched the inside of the plate, and a length of C-section brass.
Used gel super glue and clamps to secure the C-section to the inside of the plate to take out the bow.

The outer edges lack the moulded in guides that locate the glacis plate in place, so I gel-glued a 1.5mm piece of styrene inside the lower sponson plate profiles.
These will be shaped to match and I will do the lowers as well.
Once the flame marks & welds are done you should not be able to tell, but they need to be there to align & secure the front plate of the Matorro upper to the donated (Thanks again Mr Jackalope) Taigen lower.
As the upper is still going to be secured to the lower with screws through the sponsons and into the factory mounts, I can retain shape and strength of the stretched upper .

I'm sweating on the idler arms to arrive so I can get that tensioner in place.

Herman I feel horrible I forgot the tensioner arms, I'm really sorry sir.

Its all good mate- they still make them

After curing overnight I profiled the add-ons to the lower hull.
I have run out of material to carry on with the infill on the rear so I discovered
Once the flame marks and welds are put on they should look right.
And it worked a treat to retain the upper glacis in the right spot.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/th ... /Surrender

Very good reading especially to the end where the paint pattern enigma is revisited.
As I have not finalised my camo yet, this is a big deal still......................

Been following this fascinating build with interest - not least because the JT is on my list of possible future builds.
Your work Mr Bix is excellent and quite brave too - chopping up, as you do, this tank But this brings me to a couple of (probably dumb) newbie questions;
If I follow some of what has been said am I right in thinking your Matorro JT is similar to a Heng Long JT, in that the hull is too short in both cases? And is it right to say that the Torro version is, more or less, the correct length?
The reason I ask is that I'm just thinking that this would be a good reason to get the Torro as I wouldn't have to do any modification to the hull as in this build? (on the other hand the Torro's are flipping expensive of course.)
Or are there other problems with the Torro JT perhaps?
(just trying to get an idea of which way to go in purchasing a base model for a JT build)

Regardless, keep up the great work - this is good tutorial for would be builders like me!

Dr Phibes wrote:Been following this fascinating build with interest - not least because the JT is on my list of possible future builds.
Your work Mr Bix is excellent and quite brave too - chopping up, as you do, this tank But this brings me to a couple of (probably dumb) newbie questions;
If I follow some of what has been said am I right in thinking your Matorro JT is similar to a Heng Long JT, in that the hull is too short in both cases? And is it right to say that the Torro version is, more or less, the correct length?
The reason I ask is that I'm just thinking that this would be a good reason to get the Torro as I wouldn't have to do any modification to the hull as in this build? (on the other hand the Torro's are flipping expensive of course.)
Or are there other problems with the Torro JT perhaps?
(just trying to get an idea of which way to go in purchasing a base model for a JT build)

Regardless, keep up the great work - this is good tutorial for would be builders like me!

Sir, after watching your King Tiger evolve into something to behold, you could do anything..............
I would say "get the Torro"
I believe they are correct in all aspects.
They are expensive-yes, thats why I have not gone & got one down here.
Trust me, you think they are costly up there..............you would shit yourself to pay the price down here
With the exchange rate & postage its damn nigh 'fiscal prolapse'...........
As with Tamiyas = you do indeed get what you pay for in spades.
No way I can justify the outlay when I can buy a road legal car for the same cost.

There is no H/L Jagdtiger
The Matorro is a discontinued relic that should be an original collectable, not being hacked up like I have.
So the options are limited.

Outside of converting a H/L king Tiger as is currently being done, Torro is it.

Mine is always going to be nothing more than a converted Matorro, but it will be close to looking right, and certainly not owe me a months wage that I have to look my little ones in the face and try to put into real terms !!
I honestly wouldnt know what to do with a tank that required no work at all..............

HERMAN BIX wrote:http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/th ... /Surrender

Very good reading especially to the end where the paint pattern enigma is revisited.
As I have not finalised my camo yet, this is a big deal still......................

This question has been around for ever.....................

What WAS the camo paintwork like on these late Jagdtigers ??

- late war orders demanded ALL tanks be base coated in green not gelb.(yet some were apparently an all Gelb event)
- These things were made in only 2 factories.(little room for departmental difference like MAN Panthers)
- These machines were issued to only 2 definite units with a possible 'Ersatz' as a third.(limits the end users artisic theatre licence)
- Accounts have it that a unit was destined and indeed entrained to be on the line for the "Battle of the Bulge" but never made it.(this would seem to make a Hinterhalt pattern smart in line with the KT production)
- Early machines should have had the Gelb base with hard lined three-colour, perhaps with ambush(Hinterhalt) spots yet few pictures exist of this despite only 3 machines being unaccounted for
- As the 'Wonder Weapon' of the German tank fleet, why were they not assigned the absolute best the factory could produce paint wise regardless of supply pressure
- What happened to the few machines that were allegedly gunned with the smaller cannon(no pics)
- The use of the famous red primer as the over all basecoat daubed with olivegrun and dunkelgelb has never been discounted, nor supported, yet seems to me to be the most likely option.................

I get it that these things were rushed to the combat zone to try to effect any outcome possible at the time, but with the effort to produce them, and the total domination of the air by the western allies(in this theatre) why were they not given priority over all other AFV's to have a proper paint cover ?

I am leaning towards a primer base, with grun/gelb hard edge three-tone style pattern but no Hinterhalt spots(yet)
Heavier on the green over the Gelb...................

I think I need a lie-down .................

I wish they never moved the tank museum from Aberdeen I could have gone to see it I'm person again.

But it was painted a light gray and light brown.