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Re: Super P
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:06 am
by HERMAN BIX
dremel or die grinder with abrasive or carbide bit. but what size are you talking on the I.D. ?
Re: Super P
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:17 am
by palepainter
I haven't put a set of calipers on it yet, but I would guess only a few thousands needs to be opened up in the ID of the bearing, to fit over the drive shaft of motor.
Re: Super P
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:41 am
by HERMAN BIX
depending on that amount, you may get it by heating the bearing & putting the motor in the freezer (or outside on the lawn if you are in Canada !) and shrink fitting. This will only work if you are very close to the sizes.
Re: Super P
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:54 am
by palepainter
Yes, I do not think I am that close. But may be worth a try.
Re: Super P
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:22 am
by jarndice
Hi, As Herman say's, I fit gearbox output shaft bearings by putting the hull containing the gearboxes into the icebox over night and the bearings on a flat hot surface then a smear of lithium grease on the shaft, a gentle tap with a hammer and down the shaft goes the bearing. whatever you do, take care, as that great build comes to an end. shaun
Re: Super P
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:30 am
by HERMAN BIX
As a rule of thumb, shrink fitting works better on larger diameters, but if the measurements are close, this method does work on smaller dimensions. Down side of removing material from the bearing I.D. is consistent size. you may take more from one area and not enough from the other and on a small section this will result in a lose fit pretty quick. In general, a loose fit can be taken up by chemical bonding products but to tight a fit and you will donate your liver to the gods of alcohol while you start the process all over by destroying the bearing !!
Re: Super P
Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:08 pm
by palepainter
I was able to hone out the bearing just a few thousandths to get it to go over the drive axle with out any issues. I then used Miliput to lock it into place inside the plastic gear transfer box. I only had to clearance it a bit for the bearings from the old roller blades.
I spent today messing around with the commander. I threw on a matte finish over the entire thing, I think it is still too glossy for me. Will look for something else.
I also got all the electronics hooked up except for the IR fighting system. Everything worked perfectly in regards to the gun elevation and turret rotation. Very happy about that. I ordered up a few items to finish up this week. Getting so close.
Pics later.
Re: Super P
Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 11:03 pm
by palepainter
Re: Super P
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 4:32 am
by PainlessWolf
Pale,
Sweet work on the Commander! I don't know about it looking too shiny. You've got it looking just like chipped O.D. over steel. I bow to your skillset with paint, my friend. ;o) Unparalleled work.
regards,
Painless
Re: Super P
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:32 am
by ALPHA
palepainter wrote:Thanks Alpha,
I'm not sure what it will run yet. I have read that the correct Tamiya tracks have an issue with the Henglong metal drivers. So I am not sure what to do just yet, other than put the plastic tracks back on and enjoy the tank until I explore all my options. I'm not quite sure what all the options are just yet.
Pale
Yeah you can't use the tamiyas they won't work...fynsdad mentioned and I think also had a link on his Super P build...
ALPHA