RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'll certainly add those types to my bucket list. It's a shame they have a rear looking like the back of an armoured personnel carrier but still cool. Like all of us on this thread, we have a love of WW2 Russian armour so my SU100 is not for sale

Ahh well, .............every 'fan' has his price, and I have time

Maybe......

In the mean time l am still waiting for my order s of two sets of flanged bearings. You did warn me Tankme, ordered a week ago or so, the seller tells me they've today been posted so l should expect them end July!!!! The supplier you recommended has given me a similar date. Are they making them!

General Jumbo01 wrote:Maybe......

In the mean time l am still waiting for my order s of two sets of flanged bearings. You did warn me Tankme, ordered a week ago or so, the seller tells me they've today been posted so l should expect them end July!!!! The supplier you recommended has given me a similar date. Are they making them!

Yeah...waited a while for mine. I like the SU-101 and I like the SU-122/44 better. I've seen these prototypes in the World of Tanks game and played them there. There are in game models of them, but WOT doesn't always get the details right, but since they were prototypes I'm sure there isn't much good information about them.

The 122-44 could be a go I reckon.
A Soviet Jagdpanther !!

The SU-122-44 is based on the T-44 chassis and MiniArt Models makes both an early and a late version in 1/35 that could be used as a reference. Hobbyboss also makes one and it looks to be a late version.

tankme wrote:The SU-122-44 is based on the T-44 chassis and MiniArt Models makes both an early and a late version in 1/35 that could be used as a reference. Hobbyboss also makes one and it looks to be a late version.

Great info Mr tankme, I'm off to google it up now.
Downside is the almost T-55 looking lower hull/running gear position, upside is its still closer to a T34 drive system(from the rear) than the 102!

If we're going for Soviet paper panzers, I'd put my votes in for Ob'yekt 268 or Ob'yekt 704. The SU-122-54 if we're including low-production-run vehicles. It may be a controversial opinion, but Don't tell anyone though, it's RC Tank Warfare after all.

General Jumbo01 wrote:Could the problem you've described lead to delamination of the print layers?

I may not have said so, but I'm using an MSLA printer; these are all done in resin, not filament. Because the layers are cured from a liquid, the finished part is actually isotropic. The prints break at natural weak or stress points, like injection-moulded parts would. The layers physically can't separate once they're cured.

I've been trying to use an extremely dense and strong resin, but I think that's why I've been having issues. In typical fashion, I'm trying to run before I can walk and learning this whole caper using complicated models and high-performance resins. From what I've been reading, Siraya Tech Blu is notoriously tricky to print with and is very sensitive to environmental conditions; the room temperature should be over 25°C (and ideally over 30°C) . That wouldn't normally be an issue in Australia but we're heading in to winter, so the resin is really thick at room temperature. It's got the consistency of honey, so that's probably why it's getting stuck between the supports and partially curing in places it's not meant to be in. I've tried preheating the bottle beforehand, but even with the air conditioning on it cools down too quickly.

Printing in straight Siraya Tech Blu gives very crisp and strong prints, but these have been unusable as resin pools in between the supports and then partially cures.
I tried mixing in some thinner-consistency resin (Phrozen ABS-like) to get the Blu to flow better (2:1 Siraya:Phrozen). It flowed a lot better (the mix had the consistency of maple syrup), but still pooled between supports.
Just to confirm my suspicions, I printed a set in straight Phrozen ABS-like to see how a thinner resin (consistency of milk) did. Still a little bit of pooling, so I think the print may have been oriented at too shallow an angle and the support structure was too dense.
I wonder if the shape of the stamped rim is also partially to blame; because it's a flat surface, there aren't too many opportunities for the uncured resin to drain back into the vat. I've got a set of half-spider wheels printing right now to see if the holes in them help in that regard. I've also ordered some parts to make a little heater to sit next to the resin vat, I'm hoping I should be able to maintain 30°C in the printer and get the Blu to flow well enough to behave itself.

I probably shouldn't have jumped in the deep end with all this, and tried something more straightfoward to begin with, but hopefully we'll all end up with some nice wheels eventually!

I never thought I would hear anyone say that the conditions here are no good !!
However.............all I know about 3D printers would need half a micro-dot to cover

That last picture might not look ok to a fastidious perfectionist like yourself, but they look fine to this kid.
What about the flat disc inserts like the link to Hagen miniatures ? could that be a simpler option ?

I did initially consider trying to vac form disk inserts to fit the Taigen metal wheels but to they would sit too far out unless one turns the center of metal wheels back.

If you can get the resin right then it'll be worth the wait