RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Another Tank Cam Video....

If I recall correctly what you said , you were linking the camera to your iPad via your phone. If you can link the camera direct to the iPad I reckon the lag would be greatly diminished, which might make a more feasible proposition.

You could be right Richard.... I need to fiddle a bit at home to see if I can make things more reliable.... the problem with WiFi is you need a good internet connection, which we do not have in the Scout Hall. I was connecting via 3G....
Kevin

Can you link directly using bluetooth? That ought to be the quickest communication. Alternatively, a direct WiFi link between camera and iPad using a hot spot. I can link my DSLR directly with my laptop using WiFi.

Excellent video's, it must have taken a loooong time to upload those.

It looks like the muddy roads are going to last a maximum of a couple of meets more, so I will see if I can make some new, and more robust ones over the winter. I have a pile of wasted printed parts in a tub, I have a mad idea of using a heat gun to melt them down to form an uneven roadway. It will be as hard as nails and they will be welded to the base.

I also discovered something new, though it may not be new to some. My TK24 boards always had a problem with the left stick. Push it left a little and the turret turned left, push it a fraction more and it activated the tank shut down, which was a pain on my King Tiger and T90, which have the boards fitted.

I went on the web in search of a solution and discovered that this is a common problem with RC aircraft. The correct way to set the tx up is to set all the trims to centre, then go to the Display option and see where the bar graphs are. Then go to the sub trims and adjust the trims from there until the bar graphs are zero.

The trim adjusters on the tx are meant for fine tuning when the tx has been configured correctly in the programming. I did all of this and now the tanks perform as they should. I also confirmed that the configuration is indeed saved separately for each tank model stored, so they are all independent and saved separately, eg throttle curve etc.

All I have to do now is stop conkers falling on the scout hut roof, so that we don't all look at each other nervously and wonder whose tank just blew a board!

I guess the TK24 problem also applies to the TK20. Presumably the sub trims are to be found in the electronics of the Tx rather than the trim tabs.

BTW, I have a spare fire extinguisher if you feel the need for when you melt down your plastic miss-prints.

They are in the menu on the tx screen. I think the Turnigy and Flysky share the same menu system.

Just tried a Bluetooth link from my phone to my tablet for video, and it was unusable as it too jerky. I will be getting a new phone shortly, maybe that will be faster?

wibblywobbly wrote:They are in the menu on the tx screen. I think the Turnigy and Flysky share the same menu system.

Just tried a Bluetooth link from my phone to my tablet for video, and it was unusable as it too jerky. I will be getting a new phone shortly, maybe that will be faster?

Bluetooth was just an idea. I thought that if Kevin could link the camera direct to his iPad, rather than going via his phone and apparently the internet, it would be a lot quicker and more in real time.

It's a great idea, I know that there are camera's out there that are designed for the purpose, so maybe they work faster. I could try lowering the resolution on the phone camera, and seeing if that speeds things up. If we could find a cheap way of doing this it would add an interesting option to tank battles.

Here are the last two members of the 6" howitzer artillery crew. Before anyone say anything, I know they bear little resemblance to actual WW2 British uniform, but I'm a better painter than sculptor, and that's not saying much. Anyway, it's the overall impression that matters. I can add some wires to the headphones quite easily. How long should they be? To the ground or longer?