RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi,

Raminator wrote:I assume it's your usual method with pigments, but I'm interested to know which ones you used and how you applied them. It looks like something I'd like to replicate

The technique is quite simple; once the base acrylic paint is finished.
1) apply dry Black pigments to all corners and narrow low areas with small hard brush
2) dry brush all raised areas with Dark Steel pigments with hard brush to make them shiny, no more

See below, at this point, the earth pigments are not on yet
3) Then Freely apply European Earth pigments with large and soft brush
4) Spray Pigment fixer all over
5) repeat above step as required, until satisfactory, usually twice.

This is a 2-3 hour operations to finish the model the way you see it.

It provides a fast and simple way to finish a tank without being an artist or painting expert. When the model is looked at in high zoom, I like the finish it gives.
Some updates

I did the mirrors and put on the small chain on the fuel caps
Started working on the crew
The model as it stand today
Regards, Louis

Nice weathering, really adds a lot of depth and realism!

Very well done Louis

Thank you for sharing your secrets Louis, I appreciate it. How small and firm should the brushes be? I've tried it with a brush I'd trimmed the bristles down, but I think it was too hard and the black shading pigments came out far too harsh. I might need to invest in some more brushes and try experimenting before attempting my T-34.

Raminator wrote:How small and firm should the brushes be? I've tried it with a brush I'd trimmed the bristles down, but I think it was too hard and the black shading pigments came out far too harsh. I might need to invest in some more brushes and try experimenting before attempting my T-34.

Hi Raminator, for the black pigments, I like to use new, small and hard brush for that. Nice sets are quite cheap at Walmart. Its better to start with light applications around the edges. For me, it replaces the thin black lines I used to spray on the edges in my earlier models, and also the white dry brushing.

Continuing with the build. I have finished the rear area that was still missing a component.

Reference picture below and others show a tool kit rack and a Jerrycan above.
The exact same tool kit rack as above is available on Shapeways and I got it today. According to the dimensions provided on the Shapeways side, I had determined that the 1/18 scale was a better fit than the 1/16 for this vehicle. This is the 1/18 version and It fits perfectly, exactly as per references. It sells for $13.50 so it's not worth scratch building the tool rack, it would have taken a long time and I would not have been able to do better.
The M-60 rear guard machine gun was added. It is the same Verlinden M-60 that I used on the M-113 (available on the ACAV kit on sale). The mount was scratch built the best I could from the few available pictures.
The Verlinden M-60 is very beautiful and detailed, the photo-etched parts over the barrel and for the bipod are great. Get these while you can. I do not think more will be available since Verlinden closed.
With this post, the V-100 vehicle itself is completely finished. Only the crew remain to be done. I have built the driver and rear gunner, I am still awaiting from Korea the figure that will become the commander and then I will paint and install them for the finishing touch. Will provide update when done.

This was a very nice historical vehicle to build. I always liked its shapes and style. Use of the Heng Long / WPL M-35 chassis made it a cheap project compared to a tank. And it runs extremely well with the directional servo and ESC speed control unit, highly recommended.

Regards, Louis

Great build as always Louis. Your threads are always inspirational.

Magnificent
Hard to comprehend it was an H/L truck

I must build something like this, great work.

Hi,

Thank you all for your encouragements. As you can imagine, it is easy to get confused on such builds and i hope my work can help others.

Here is part 1 of the building up of the Military Police crew.

As it is a new experience for me to deal with modelling the Military Police in 1/16 scale, It was important to do a bit of research in order to create a realistic crew, conversions are required. As i am posting this build on the web, i feel i must do these men the honor of representing them in an accurate way, the best i can. It is simple and inspirational to just rely on photographic evidences available with a google search and read a couple of articles.

The US Military Police, as enforcers of law and order on military installations, also fulfill a number of combat roles. They are widely employed for such duties as convoy security (escort), base perimeter security and mounted and dismounted patrols in war zones.

On dismounted patrols, I have found that the Military Policemen are usually much cleaner than the grunts, and show a much stricter dress code. For example, i did not see any bare chested MPs under a flak jacket. Other than in true combat, they carry a simpler black painted helmet liner with a white MP written on it or a cap, with a black MP arm band and only carry light weapons.
On mounted patrols, they sometimes wear combat helmets but it is obvious they are not going very far because they do not carry heavy bags or much equipment on their webbing. They are armed with M16 rifles, M79 grenade launchers and vehicle mounted M60 machine guns.
In combat zones, they can be employed as infantry when required, and also take care of captives.
Good view of the MP helmet liner as used in Vietnam. I want to show at least one of the crew with an MP helmet.
In this picture, we have a very good view of the MP arm band that is of much interest and needs to be replicated. This guy must have seen a lot...
Continuing on following post.
Louis

Hi,

This is part 2 of the V-100 MP crew buildup.

As this is a build, I wanted to show the figures in their building stage.

Below are 2 pictures of the overall position of the 3 man crew I created. My vision is of a vehicle on base perimeter patrol, going through a village with some locals ignoring them. As such, it is a low intensity area but they are MPs so they are looking for anything suspicious and have intimidating poses, in a display of authority with weapons at the ready.
The commander is a limited conversion of the fabulous SOL 1/16 Vietnam Marine 2. Its stature and pose is perfect to stand as the MP commander in the turret. Its Marine's cap has been modified to be like a regular US Army cap. The quality of the resin and molding is the best I have ever seen.
The arms have been modified and the left arm is carrying a Verlinden CAR-15 carbine, a Colt Commando XM-177 with retractable stock, shorter barrel and gun flash reducer. As a mounted commander, I would have preferred its small size compared to a regular M-16. Besides, who would not like to stand on a armored vehicle with a CAR-15 in hand...
The driver is a leftover from the M-113 build and is a Dragon Seal torso and head, with some modified arms and a cap found in the spare box, likely old Tamiya panzer stuff. As its head is kind of big, I think I will give him a helmet instead.
The rear M60 machine gunner is a Verlinden M79 gunner highly modified. Although the kit figure has no usable legs, the crouched position of the torso is perfect for a man sitting inside a vehicle and torso standing out with a weapon in hand. I also used it on the M-113. It comes with a lot of good equipment too.
Both arms needed quite a bit of rework. The microwave helped a bit to soften the resin and reposition to some extent, but they needed to be cut in multiple places so that they fit around the M60 in a natural way.
The next step is to correct a few remaining things, polish and paint them.

Regards, Louis