RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Are you keeping the battery box from underneath or getting rid of it in favor of putting inside? I'd put it inside myself cause then you can make an aluminum plate for the whole floor inside which should strengthen it nicly. Then 2 stripes for the sides.

I'd use screws myself with epoxy brushed on all the plastic and then stick the aluminum plate on it then run machine screws through with a dot of crazy glue to keep the nuts from backing off. The short rear section I'd put the screws in groups of 3 to make triangle shapes which should really hold it together securely. The right side I'd put the triangle with the point upward, the left side point downward, the floor 2 triangles one point facing forward one point facing backward. That's 12 screws on just the rear where the idlers are. The rest I'd go with a line of screws on each side from the cut line all the way to the to the very front. The floor I'd do a line a screws on each side about an inch from the corner where the floor meets the sides.
That should make it strong enough to stand on!

jackalope wrote:Are you keeping the battery box from underneath or getting rid of it in favor of putting inside? I'd put it inside myself cause then you can make an aluminum plate for the whole floor inside which should strengthen it nicly. Then 2 stripes for the sides.

I'd use screws myself with epoxy brushed on all the plastic and then stick the aluminum plate on it then run machine screws through with a dot of crazy glue to keep the nuts from backing off. The short rear section I'd put the screws in groups of 3 to make triangle shapes which should really hold it together securely. The right side I'd put the triangle with the point upward, the left side point downward, the floor 2 triangles one point facing forward one point facing backward. That's 12 screws on just the rear where the idlers are. The rest I'd go with a line of screws on each side from the cut line all the way to the to the very front. The floor I'd do a line a screws on each side about an inch from the corner where the floor meets the sides.
That should make it strong enough to stand on!

Pretty much going to do all those steps mate, but I want to keep the battery box.
It adds to the overall rigidity, and means I dont have to have a magnet jointed hull.
I tend to have much bits n pieces hanging off my tanks, and the removable top hull would be to hard to handle for me.
This one shouldnt have too many accessories, but will still be awkward to handle.

Kiaser wrote:No I took a walk HB to the aluminium supplies 1.6 mm or 2 mm ......

Just measure the hull length and width and height I will make one I have 40 ton bender I want to try out insert in that rear like jacalopes comment above get rid of the B box make the battery internal .

2mm section odd leg aloominum angle. $6.50 at Bunnings
I can profile around the suspension arm moulds and bang as many bolts into it as I need.
The same section will also allow the smoker to be secured on the rear hull floor.

Battery box means stay away from mud and water! But either way you build it I can't wait to see it! 2mm aluminum plate should make it plenty strong.

Kiaser wrote: now we are talking sikaflex sealant Automotve or marine adhesive also a essential on the Bunnings list

Very familiar with both those. Im not real concerned with weather proofing. Hell, I dont even drive my car in the rain !!

Sometimes, its the little things in life that mean the most ..............like hatches
From solid moulded, to working.
Used a bit of plastic sheet over the corner under each pivot which I will trim away to suit. Drilled a hole in them to take a small bolt.
The hatches each had a corresponding nut recessed into the pivot and superglued.
Once set, used a spring out of a pen that stopped working and placed it over the bolt, made them together with a spot of glue on the end of the bolt.
Working hatches

Need a bit of info on this tensioner kindly gifted by Mr Jackalope.
I have tried it in all ways in the hull, but cannot for the life of me see how it can work.
Not sure if there are any bits missing ?
The idler wheel shafts which are standard Taigen metal are too small.

Any info graciously received.

That look very similar to the tensioner for a Tamiya.

Herman it looks like it's missing the parts that the idler wheels go into. I'm real sorry my friend I got that from Max but since all my tanks have adjustable idlers already I figured I'd give it to you. I bought replacement tensioner parts from R/C TANKS.DE but I looked today and I can't seem to find them now. I'll get you some pics of my Jagdtiger tensioner setup which is the same as you now have. I'll also post pics of your missing parts, again I'm so sorry I missed that.....I feel terrible.

Ok here are some pics of the missing bits. I feel terrible Herman, I'm so so sorry.






Crude mock up of how it goes together.



This is how the missing arm bit goes into the hole on the end of the part you have.



This is what it looks like from the inside. The screws go thru the floor of the tank and pushes against the arms to twist the bar which will swing the arms that the idlers are connected to.





This is the only bit of the screws that can be seen from under the tank. These screws are turned to adjust the track tension.



This is the part you're missing, again feel like crap. But you can see how it will pass through the sides of the hull and the idler wheel is installed.




This is a factory style Taigen/Torro track tensioner set up, if anyone has better or more pics for Mr.Bix please feel free to add to what I have here. Herman anything else you need? Well other then the missing arms that is. Email Dominique from RCTANKS.DE for the arms, I KNOW they're sold seperatly I just can't find them to link them for you.

Bingo ! Thanks mate, I get it now.
Don't take any bad feeling on, I'm just happy to have it in the first place,
I will see about getting those arms.
Thanks for the pics, I now know what I don't know !!