DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build

[philipat]

- Added a cap with chain to the coolant drain pipe. I bored it out to 1.8-mm. I used a 1.5-mm hex rod (don’t have any round rod between 1 and 2-mm). This was inserted into a 1-mm long section of 3.2-mm (1/8") styrene tubing. With the rod cemented into the tubing, I sanded it down into a rounded shape. The chain has 27 links per inch. It’s secured to the cap in the hex rod and the hull using a single copper strand from electrical wire. The hex rod had the unexpected benefit of flat sides that made drilling the hole for the copper strand easier.

[philipat]

I’m dissembling the sides and templating where bits will go in preparation for reinforcing the hull...after I finish gutting it.

First up is popping off the final drive covers and giving them a little more detail. I added the missed bolt heads. First attempt involved using 2.5-mm hex rod for the larger bolts. They looked a little large and I wanted some details on the smaller bolt heads and their placement. I noticed that a DAK member had done something similar and used 2-mm hex rod, which I have. So, I tried that and compared them. Went with the 2-mm rod. The smaller bolt heads are 1.5-mm hex rod.

Reference pages:
http://www.desertarmor.com/DAK_PROJECTS ... .html#grid
http://www.forum-rc-panzer.com/t3950-Panzer-IV-G.htm

[philipat]

In keeping with the theme of templating, the return rollers needed some attention. A critical element is lowering the rearmost roller on each side by 3-mm. I purchased the Taigen/Asiatam metal supports; so, I’ll be installing those, too.

A couple of the roller supports weren’t glued in really well and even left a gap under them making it easy to get a screwdriver in there and pop them off. Several others suffered from liberal applications of glue requiring a lot of debonder, carving and prying. In the end, I destroyed most of the supports trying to get them off.

For anyone trying this mod or planning to lower the rear roller mounts, note that there is a support shaft molded to the side of the tank’s hull. The first step is to separate the rollers using a little debonder and carefully prying them apart. Then, unscrew axle holding the inner roller. After that, you can remove the plastic mount. If you try to take them off with the rollers and axle still in place, then you will have to break molded supports from the inner support from the hull. I made this mistake on the first two, before I realized what I was doing wrong. That will require some Milliput for repairs.

Since not all of them come out cleanly and I was going to drill out new holes for the lowered mounts, I made a template. I did this by cutting a strip of 1-mm styrene the width of the supports and using the axle screw to screw the styrene to the inside of the hull. Then, I drilled from the outside through the holes of the supports that came out cleanly on all 4 posts to make the template in the styrene. I cut it long enough so that I could measure from the top of the hull for the higher roller mounts and include a shorter extension for the lower rollers. This extension would measure from the top of the strut housing to the placement of the return roller mounts.

IMG_0008.jpg (89.25 KiB) Viewed 5033 times

Once the template is made, cut off the molded supports where the screw goes. The metal roller won’t fit over them. Then use the template to drill out any posts that broke off in the hull while removing the mounts.

Pictures show the metal mounts being test fitted on one side.

[KTRob]

As Herman said, this is a benchmark build, superb work

[jarndice]

BRILLIANT!!!, Whenever I look at my Panzer 4s I cannot help but notice the massive difference dropping the last rollers make to the whole build. Worth every swear word! It won't help you, but when I want rivet heads I use dressmakers pins, they come in various sizes and the smaller ones are ideal and they have the advantage that if you snip off the tail a 1/2 to 3/4s along its shaft you can pin vise a hole for it so that with a drop of C/A it is secure and unlikely to drop off. shaun

[philipat]

Thanks guys.

Dressmaker pins are a great idea. I used them for the flat bolt heads on the rear upper deck. They were mostly flat and just took a little filing to flatten them out. Word of warning...pins are sharp! Don't ask how I know.

Oh learned something while doing this. I thought I saw somewhere that the large brackets in the rear under the exhaust were fully enclosed and not an open channel like on HL's. So, I filled them with Milliput. Then, I was doing some more research on the drain tube and found better pictures of those brackets. Turns out they are an open channel. They provide armored covers for the exhaust pipes. The pipes exit the hull there and then go into the large round enclosure. Seems that HL got that part right and even got one of the exhaust pipes in the outside bracket.

So, out came the Milliput...fortunately, it hadn't dried yet.

[philipat]

Philipat a tip, free gratis and for nothing, I assume you will be fitting metal wheels and rollers, when you push the steel axles through the rollers and into the hull you will have 8 "C" clips to locate the axles, "C" clips are a pain, fiddly to fit and annoying to remove as they spring away under the work bench/kitchen table, I use "R" clips easy to fit and a doddle to remove.any hobby store selling slot and r/c cars will provide more than you can handle and CHEAP!!! shaun

Shaun,

Revisiting this since I'm getting close to this point... Where are those C clips supposed to fit anyways? Do they go inside the hull? Provide spacing between the roller and the mount?

[philipat]

Philipat Hallo, When you cut out the plastic simulated engine grilles to fit the working metal hatches I assume you removed the locating struts beneath them, have you given thought to how you will be fitting hull to body? I ask because when I did it I took note of the lesson given by DIETRICH who suggested screwing 10mmx3mmx2mm neodymium magnets to the rear struts (both top and bottom) and the front struts the same, you will have to play around with an EXACTO Micro-saw to get the hight correct, I would not advise just glueing them in place as they will pull free, I bought F102S and F102N Countersunk Magnets from http://www.first4magnets.com, unfortunately that will only hold the body down, to hold it in place the struts behind the driver and radio operators hatches need to be drilled out to accept 3mm rod which when the bottom of the struts in the hull are filled sit unglued erect and fitting into the struts in the body, to fit top to bottom, with the two front hatches open you can then align the rods it sounds complicated but it is easy and much better than Heng Longs method,

Another revisit...gathering parts and I was planning to use magnets to get it done. Do you have any pictures of what you did? Or what DIETRICH did? Looking for ideas. I don't have any struts left in the rear. Considering attaching them to the sides...

[jarndice]

Hallo my hero, Before doing anything else, I suggest you carry out a dry run, Lay out the Track, fit a pair of Road Wheels - Push the Roller Axle through the Roller and Holder and through the Hull,- then place the Road Wheels on the Track with the centre rib of the Track between the Road Wheels lift the free end of the Track so that the centre rib sits between the twin Wheels of the Rollers,-if the centre of the Track on the Rollers is directly above the centre of the Track under the Road Wheels then the Alignment is right. Do nothing. But do note how far inside the Hull the Slot on the Roller Axle is- if it is close to the inside of the Hull then fit the "C"clip/"R"clip using the slot on the Axle to retain the flat of the "C"clip/"R"clip in position-If there is a gap between the inside of the Hull side and the Slot on the Axle I would suggest packing the gap with a Washer/s- some free play is okay but too much will cause the Tank to "THROW" a Track.

I managed to retain the uprights so that I was able to use them to mount the magnets top and bottom.
My suggestion off the top of my head is this (I am sure others will offer better suggestions)I would cut a strip from a Coffee can/Bean Tin (Other drinks/vegetables are available)This would be 2cm/1 inch longer than the width of the Hull- Bending 1cm/1/2 inch tab at each end and mounting the strip across the rear of the hull Fixing the Tabs against the sides of the hull on both sides, Screw two countersunk magnets along the strip and carry out the same exercise in the Tank body. I suggest you do this as far to the rear of the hull and body so that the engine access doors are kept free. I hope this does the job. shaun

[philipat]

sounds good...except that I don't have guides for the C-clips. Your instructions are what I figured was supposed to happen. But...

I like the magnet idea...gets some juices flowing.