RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Once again, no kit for the Brit type tow bar so I made one. Bovington was kind enough to send me a couple pictures for reference so scaled them down and here is the product. I have to make the pintle yet. However, I mounted it for a dry run to make sure all the angles were right. So without further adieu, here it is.

The lamp guards and horn guard are installed, and welds are complete. I noted the electrical conduit that runs to the horn in my references, so I added that as well as the the lamp plug and retainer and chain to the light guards. Something I've never seen anyone do yet on a Sherman. You'd think what Shumo charges for the guard set they would have caught this little detail. I also used the Shumo lift hooks. I completed the welds, however the actual LED lighting and lenses will go in after I have shot the paint.

Awesome work, Dan!! I love your eye for detail. The lamp plug is a nice detail, which in my opinion also, should be on the Schumo kits upgrade as well, but hey, nothing too complicated te reproduce!

Keep up the good work, I will follow you silently, but closely...LOL John.

John:
I just noted your location. I was there in 1994 for 50 year anniversary of Market-Garden. I was with the 504th Parachute infantry regiment, the same unit that made the jump in Graves. My grandfather made the jump on 17 Sept 44.

-Dan

After noting that rear equipment on the M4A1 was different than all the later variants I once again started fabricating being nothing was supplied to mount the tools correctly for this variant. The early M4's had the sledge hammer supported by a U shaped cup and the handle sat in two L shaped brackets. I made them from scrap brass. The track adjuster is also mounted differently on this variant. I used box plastic stock and cut it in half. I also used brass tube to mount the hex end of the wrench. The crank starter I bent from aluminum tubing. I used the next diameter up to make the handle and a Waldron punch set to punch the crank handle end from sheet plastic. I noted the pin and chain that retains the wrench and added them, then the welds that would be in place for the brackets.

After looking at my references the Shumo lamp guards are actually made incorrectly for use on the cast hull variant. I had to lengthen the outer rear leg on both sides to make them correct.

I primed the rear turret storage container today. It looks much better in primer than it does in the white.

Dan,

just for my info, do you use plain automotive primer, or a fancy modelling primer??

John.

John:
I use the Tamiya primer for the resin and plastic parts and I use an etching primer from a company called SEM for the metal componets. The Tamiya primer says it works for metal too, but I can tell you it's bonding properties lack when it comes to using it on the aluminum especially.
-Dan

Here is the completed driver's hatch. I probably would have got more done last night but the cat kept stealing the tools and running off with them. I tried to duplicate them as close as possible to the prototype. I opened the driver's side periscope because I don't think tanks used sonar for guidence. I just thought it'd look better with the driver's side with an open periscope. I once again used the old silk thread trick to cut off the periscope cover and repositioned it open.
I also completed the periscopes, however I will show them to good effect when I have painted them.

-Dan