RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Front view of the TOW launcher


The raising mechanism is excellent. The cover is handled like the real thing. I need to put on some structure inside as it is currently empty.


Overview of the model as it stands today. Next step is to create the M3A3 rear top hatch to replace the M2A3 hatch coming with the kit, and finalize the installation of the electronics.


Merry Christmas everybody !!

Louis

Now that is the definition of applique armor. And I thought the Lee and Grants had a bunch of rivets!

Great work so far. Merry Christmas!

This proves that the microwave is for more than just snacks: it's a forge! Great work!

The Bradley has nothing on the A7V for bolt heads

Happy new year !

Thank you for you interest.

The following two posts are for the M3A3 Bradley CFV rear top hatch.


The M3A3 CFV has a totally different rear top hatch than other M2 IFV and M3 CFV versions. It is very difficult to find pictures of it. Being on top, photographers are not able to see or picture the hatch without climbing on the vehicle, something that very few people dare to do. Some pictures i have found were unclear and there even seems to be variations of it. Here we can see an M3A3 hatch with its 4 periscopes and add-on armor.


Do to the lack of available photographic evidences, i had to rely entirely on the Meng 1/35 M3A3 CFV model kit for reference on shapes and dimensions. The hatch has a complicated design, has rounded corners and lots of angles. Shown here next to the kit simpler M2A3 IFV hatch, which is too small by the way.


View of the inside of the hatch.


I started the scratch building by drawing a template and cut some parts. It is also important to dry fit it with the hull in order to adjust whatever need to be adjusted to fit the vehicle.


Telescopic scratch building of the basic shapes, starting at the bottom and going up.


Progressing. The hatch is built in 1.5mm plasticard which allows for the corners to be rounded later.


Slowly getting there. Its not perfect of course, but close enough to the original design.


I used to be scared of creating periscope. What's available on the market, mainly WW2 periscopes, are never of the right dimensions. Periscopes core are easily created in 4mm thick plasticard, shaped with a nail file and augmented by a thin plasticard sheet for the guards.


Here, the hatch is getting close to completion. There are a few differences here and there with the Meng kit design, but this is the closest i could do with the time i wanted to spend on it, more or less 10 hours in total.


Continuing on following post

I applaud your attention to detail. Pieces like that hatch are a royal pain to build.

View of the Meng kit 1/35 hatch with the bolted raised add-on armor plates. Notice the anti-skid surface.


Complex design again.


The completed scratch built 1/16 M3A3 with the add-on armor.


It is only once the part will have been primed with an enamel primer that all the scrathes and holes can be seen, and the part finetuned. The brass bolts are removable so that the anti-skid paste can be applied later. Experts will notice that i have reused the OKMO M2 hinges for the M3. I should have created new ones but decided to reuse the M2 hinges for simplicity, and matching the hinge base on the hull. The real M3 hinges are similar but positioned a bit differently.


The inside of the hatch was given periscopes and the handle.


View of the M3A3 CFV rear hatch temporarily mounted on the chassis using a brass rod.

tankme wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 4:31 pm I applaud your attention to detail. Pieces like that hatch are a royal pain to build.

Yeah it was... thanks

And here is a picture of the M3A3 CFV model as it stands today.
Regards, Louis

Looking sharp

Louis,
Happy New Years! All of the Sub Assemblies are Mini Kits and usually Scratch Built by you. Beautiful work and celestial attention to Detail. Following along!

regards,
Painless