RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Rad_Schuhart wrote: My idea was one servo mount for recoil and another for elevation that replace the stock units. Considering the tamiya tanks use the same units, Im surprised nobody already did it and put it in shapeways or so.

Something like these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024033 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024033

B_Man wrote:

Rad_Schuhart wrote: My idea was one servo mount for recoil and another for elevation that replace the stock units. Considering the tamiya tanks use the same units, Im surprised nobody already did it and put it in shapeways or so.

Something like these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024033 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024033

Something like that, yes! This guy writes here in the forum, im going to contact him. Thanks!

And sorry Hernan for derrailing your thread...

Edit: One for the heng long tanks: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103220

No derailing at all mate, all info is good info

I got some pictures thru from Mr Reaper that show how to mount an HL elevation unit into the TAMIYA turret.
I thought I had a unit but turns out I had a man look and it was not !
I pulled one out of a Panther turret and will set about it tonight.
Pics of the set up soon

Elevation conversion pics

My version of the 'droopy barrel' cure.
Still have to solder the Tamiya cables from the original unit onto the H/L one.
As soon as I tightened the screws, all the slop was gone.
But, the Tamiya unit allows for the barrel being accidentally depressed when not under power by slipping the gears.
This will not be so forgiving.

Thanks to Mr Reaper for the 'how-to' pics previously.

It still has a clutch in it like the tamiya unit it’s just stiffer

Nice work Herman. Like the modifications

Cheers lads, it certainly is a 'must-do' on these things. The barrel is so long that any excess movement at its mount is exagerated at the muzzle brake.
I got on with the rear plate. Getting the enamel paint of is most of the effort.
I used an old razor saw to rough up the jack block & try to introduce a grain effect into it.
The rest of the plate was filled and sanded to reduce the mess.
I have dry fitted new Taigen metal exhausts to the rear and textured the armoured covers with Tamiya putty & an old brush.
They look ok even before a light sand.
Attached jack mounts to the lower plate, and secured the exhaust hardware.
Once its dry I will paint a texture of burnt metal(not sure what that will be at this stage )over the areas covered by the armoured covers and then secure those covers in place.
Ive also done the welds with my now standard heated screwdriver technique and they turned out pretty good.
Once all aspects of the outer details are done, I will get the burner going again & do the zimmerit.

Hi Herman Is the plastic on the Tamiya as robust as the ABS stuff on the HL hulls? Was wondering about the heat on the plastic.