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Yeah, well...I also heard from Alpha about it, and he said that the stock arrangement lets you adjust the tension to fit slack tracks. So, whatever works for each of us, I guess. Either way is a lot more substantial than the plastic setup, though. -Mike

Dr. Sassgrunt,
I completely agree. I have some hope of running a regular slackness of track on that StuG now without it dancing off the idler at the first turn in grass. ;o)
regards.
Painless

Lots of sunshine and gentle breezes saw me working on the StuG lower today. First, I primed and painted the new metal idlers and sprockets. While the pieces were drying, I was figuring out how to mount the idlers on the new metal adjusters. The original screws were meant to screw into plastic and had that type of thread. The screws and collars and washers that came with the idlers were designed to replace the original screws so would not work either. Taigen had enclosed two screws that had the correct thread but were much too short to mount the idlers also. I ended up taking a drive down to the local Home Despot and got a longer version of the right screws and some extra washers. Coming home I cut some plastic sheathing for the idler's bearing to sit and run on using the original screw as a template. A couple of added washers and the new metal idlers were securely mounted. After all of that I figured that, of course, the sprockets would be a perfect fit on the shafts of the new gearboxes, right? *laughs* I ended up getting the Dremel out and using a drill bit to clean up the inside of the new metal sprockets until they could be pressed into place. Hopefully, the new metal road wheels will swap out correctly. ;o) Pics:

Pouring rain for the last couple of days so no painting. I did want to install the metal suspension arms and a couple of the wheels to test. Well, the wheels as shipped had the type of axle installed that is used for the arms on Taigen's metal lower hull not the plastic lower that I am using. The new metal arms I am installing are the type used for the plastic lower. So I pulled a little hair dreading the call to IMEX to ask for replacement axles or wheels and decided to research first. Not a lot out there and especially no pics or process on how to swap the metal wheels onto metal arms on a plastic lower. No pics of the axle or screw that would be required. I looked at the metal arm and noted that while it was not tapped, it did have the type of tabs that would allow for a screw to be used....Just like the plastic arm it was replacing. My mind finally woke up and realized that to use these Taigen metal wheels on the Taigen metal suspension arms for plastic lower, all that was required was to separate the metal wheel, pull out the axle then separate the plastic wheel and remove the screw. Use the screw to attach the metal wheel to the metal arm. As you all then say, 'Bob's your Uncle!' Pics:

Still raining here so spent some time last night assembling and installing the roadwheels. Really makes a difference in the weight of the lower hull. These are nice quality pieces from Asiatam sold through Taigen. I removed the rubber in anticipation of prime and paint which will hopefully take place as soon as the sun shines. Pics:

Good morning, Paul,
Thank you, my friend. I noticed that a simple press fit won't keep these together. I will do as you have and use just a spot of the UltraGel to keep them together. I had trepidations about having to drill and use extra screws to keep the shock mounts in place but they are working as intended. A pleasant surprise!
regards,
Painless

Got some more done today. The metal return rollers are in pieces when they arrive so as a word of caution I suggest looking at the original plastic pieces or an assembly template to make sure that they go on the new axles oriented in the right direction. Once mounted and the tiny nuts threaded on, a drop of Loc-Tite will help ensure that the nuts don't take a trip into the gearbox later on. I finished off the day's work prepping the lower for painting by puttying up the extra screw holes and trimming off the unneeded 'G' type front shackle mounts. The mufflers had broken while being removed so a little drilling and some pins saw them securely reattached. On to priming tomorrow. Pics:

Coming along nicely painless

***

Ed,
Thank you, Sir. Today was a beautiful day and I had to spend it outdoors, cleaning up after weeks of rain. So, I'll work on the primer tomorrow. I did manage to complete the putty work on the lower and put some thought into correcting the appearance of the rear bulk head a little more. The real AFV has a radiator air inlet grill under the plating there so I will work up something similar to fill the gap left by the removal of the PZ III lower hull spacer. Pics: