RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

After a while sitting unloved I have dusted off my Aldi 3D printer and dialed it back in for a few projects I have in mind, one of which is servo elevation for my T55. Before I go down the rabbit hole of designing them with CAD does anyone on here have .STL files for elevation gears? I'm looking for something similar to the Clark system.

This might just do the trick


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103220


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Thanks, I have considered that option but I'm hoping to avoid push rods and use a smoother geared system. The Clark unit uses a small gear on the servo which meshes with a larger gear section connected to the barrel unit.




In theory it looks pretty simple but for a CAD numpty like me gears are a bit of a challenge.

B_Man wrote:Thanks, I have considered that option but I'm hoping to avoid push rods and use a smoother geared system. The Clark unit uses a small gear on the servo which meshes with a larger gear section connected to the barrel unit.




In theory it looks pretty simple but for a CAD numpty like me gears are a bit of a challenge.

Gears or pulleys are relatively easy to CAD.
But first you need to work out what module/pitch you want.
Simple way is start with base circle which should be calculated as (pitch×no.grooves/teeth)/pi
Then you need to generate a profile for tooth. You may be able to get something off the web from standards.

You will need to work out some more details to get perfect meshing
From this point you can trial and error to a point they will work.

To draw the grooves draw one half of a profile on the OD of the circle. Cut that thru.
Then mirror that profile to make whole.
Then array around your centre point and you have your gear.

I've tried to print file bought on CG Trader. In my opinion result is not bad. Figure put in angle to shave print time.

Looks excellent


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Very nice Kaczor, the print quality looks very good also

Cheers, Lee.

The way I did it was to download a linear actuator, simply a cog and a toothed bar. The bar is attached to the barrel, and slides inside an HL style box. The toothed cog wheel is screwed onto the servo, and pulls the bar back when it rotates, plus of course the barrel. It is hollow so that I can thread a pair of muzzle flash wires through it.

Only two moving parts and very reliable.

Kaczor wrote:I've tried to print file bought on CG Trader. In my opinion result is not bad. Figure put in angle to shave print time.

Very nice, looks ace

After aplaying some primer. Plastic Dragon figure for comparison. My reenactor friend said that there are some issues with uniform but I'm not a rivet counter in this case

I'v got this model from this guy:
https://www.cgtrader.com/artejaol