RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Nope! You read it right. With all the fillers, primer and paints I have never used fine sandpapers on 16th armor. It removes material fast and leaves a good surface for my taste. Light pressure with 150 is what you see in those turret bin pictures.

I will admit that the sand paper I use does appear much finer than some of the sanding products I use for other tools. The stuff I have is a Canadian made 3M product. I've got some 60 and 80 grit out in the garage for metal work that looks nasty but works great for cleaning up welds.

I second Ecam on the 100 and 150 grit for 1/16; my finest grit is 400. I also have one of those pen sanders sold by MicroMark, but much less expensive on Amazon.

I'll third Ecam! Plus whatever you're putting on top of what you've sanded has more gription. Unless you've got paper that can take wetsanding and rinsing, 400 and above clogs after about 3 passes with autobody filler or spot and glaze putty. I keep the 600 up to 2000 stuff and beyond for restoring nasty fogged car headlights.
Time for a trip to my hardware store for modelling supplies--tin of Bondo, tube of spot and glaze, new sheets of 150 grit, litre of MEK, litre of acetone, and a jug of washer fluid. Good for another 5 years!

Mike.

ColemanCollector wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 3:50 pm
Time for a trip to my hardware store for modelling supplies--tin of Bondo, tube of spot and glaze, new sheets of 150 grit, litre of MEK, litre of acetone, and a jug of washer fluid. Good for another 5 years!

Mike.

OK I'm curious about a tip I clearly have missed...

what is the washer fluid used for?

Hah! It's my thinner for acrylics when airbrushing. Seems to work well in my brush. Saw a youtube artist using it, and dang, it works for me, too!

Mike.

That makes sense, methanol would be a quick evaporating thinner for acrylic paints. I still haven't made the switch from enamels except for a couple washes after the paint job is done. I did try some on my Tamiya Tiger I, but I found I kept damaging the base coat with other layers (camo/washes). That one is on the schedule for a strip and repaint.

I use a DIY airbrush cleaner and reducer.

Recipe:

4 Cups Distilled Water
1 Cup Fantastik all-purpose cleaner
1 Cup 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
5 drops Glycerine

Eric, (Ecam) you can spray on a coat of flat, clear lacquer or enamel (Rustoleum Dead Flat works) after using the acrylics. Once that has dried, you can use weathering products over acrylics. In fact, I do so regardless of the base coat type.

Well it was Dunkle Gelb that went down. On a handful of road wheels I tested to clear coats prior to weathering. All except one (Armory clear matte sealer) changed the color of the tan/dark yellow. So the hull and turret have a nice color since they weren't top coated. Only the wheels were tested on and in trying to repair them I can see the grey plastic that Tamiya molded this in.

So I have had more luck and experience with enamels....

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