1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 Patton tank with ERA - Build

[Karl_Diesel]

Hello to all,

the Schumo toolbox handles can be ordered on demand (at the Axels), even if they are declared as "not available" in the online shop. They need about 6 weeks for manufacturing.


Your conversion is very very nice ! But it is awful to see how many work is required to make a good looking M60 tank out of this Tongde toy

[lmcq11]

Hi, thank you everyone for your encouragements. For sure, the TONGDE M-60 looks like a good M60 from a distance. After all, it is an RC toy. I am using this toy as a base kit for conversion to become a 1/16 scale model in addition to an RC vehicle. This is a superb base for my hobby...

I would like to provide a quick update on the planning phase for the upper hull because i found additional information on the headlight guards, driver's hatch and periscope.

I have found a much nicer picture providing details on the structure of the headlight guards.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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I also had this M-60A1 1/35 kit from AFV Club, which is definitely a more recent kit than the Academy kit. However, it depics an M-60A1 prior to the "Passive" upgrade which introduced new passive thermal sights for commander, gunner and driver, new M68E1 main gun, updated engine, ERA...). As such, it has differences with the M-60A1 RISE. However, basic structural components should be identical.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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What is interesting is the completely different driver's compartment rendition between the two kits. Texture on the hull is also a lot more rough on the AFV Club model. The hatch has a rotating periscope instead of the AN/VVS-2 passive night vision shown on the "Passive" Academy kit.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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However, notice the difference in the position of the central driver's periscope between the Academy kit on the left and AFV-Club on the right. The Academy hatch is also much more forward. That did not change as part of the Passive upgrade.

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So, we have to be extremely careful as to what kit we are using as reference, confirm all specs with multiple sources before making a mistake.

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I went through all the pictures i could find of the hatch. They are very rare. But these pics provide the answer as to how to position the periscopes, and what is the driver's hatch style with AN/VVS-2 passive night vision as used on the M-60A1 RISE during Desert Storm.

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Regards, Louis

[lmcq11]

Hi,

Continuing with the build.

For the back plate gap, the back plate is held by two bolts, nothing was glued and they just needed adjustment for a perfect fit.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The following two posts are for the side bins upgrade.


A quick study of a few pictures show the structure that needs to be replicated. Nothing complicated.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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I decided to completely replace the top of the bins. The whole base for the lid is too low, it needs to be raised by 1.5mm, and discard everything above it.

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Underneath, the bins are empty, which makes it easier.

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As i use the Dremel with a cutting disk, a mark was drawn so that i do not go lower than this, the finetuning will be done with a hand nail file.

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Dremel and plyers are used to remove the solid bin lids, then the top is sanded strait. Someone that wants to create bins that can be opened and closed with working hinges certainly can. However, working bins always create gaps that show because it is extremely difficult to make a bin close perfectly. I prefer to keep them closed tight.

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A new base in 1.5mm plasticard is created on the 4 bins, covering the whole top.

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The joints are eliminated by applying superglue on the joints and sanding it smooth all around, the outside tip is given an angle shown on the reference picture.

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A strait 1mm plasticard spacer is added to represent the recessed layer between the bin and the lid.

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Then the lid is created in 2mm plasticard, for a 14mm high bin.

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Continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

On this picture, we see the required additions to complete the bins; Two hinges at the back with two bolt heads, the handles on top of a thin plate with bolt heads and a locking mechanism, and the embossed stifferers.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Dimensions for the hinges, plates and embossed stiffeners were extrapolated from the AFV-Club model. The stiffeners are made in 1.5mm half rods and given rounded tips.

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Then the Schumo handles discussed in previous posts are added with a locking bracket made of plasticard, then the hole is drilled though the eye for the padlock. Thank you Tankme for identifying the Special Ops replacement for those handles because the Schumo handles could take time or be complicated to get. And thank you Karl for identifying that the Schumo handles can be ordered on demand from Axels, i did not know that. Personally, i prefer metal handles because these handles are quite thin and could easily break if you are not careful at every second you are handling your RC model. It's not really an issue for static models.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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On the following two pictures, you can see the complete structure of the updated bins. It is easy to see the mods and the layers. As you might have noticed, the hull itself is made of white plastic under the desert yellow paint.

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Overview of the 4 bins. Take note of the directions of each handle, the directions were checked against reference,

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Overview of the model as it stands today. The commander's cupola was given its 4th putty/sanding application, it's getting there.

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Having realistic side bins really add to the look and feel of the M-60. It must have taken about 8 hours of work in total.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Next step, the air filters.

Regards, Louis

[Herr Dr. Professor]

WHAT? Louis! "A quick study of a few pictures show the structure that needs to be replicated. Nothing complicated. " Aw, c'mon! I'm scratching my head and proceeding tiny bit-by-bit just to scratch build a speaker box for my FAMO. Good grief...you experts and your modesty!

[lmcq11]

WHAT? Louis! "A quick study of a few pictures show the structure that needs to be replicated. Nothing complicated. " Aw, c'mon! I'm scratching my head and proceeding tiny bit-by-bit just to scratch build a speaker box for my FAMO. Good grief...you experts and your modesty!

Aw, c`mon... i am making a big effort here to make it a super simple build. Basic hobby tools, few and small add ons, nothing fancy, no expensive stuff. I go fast and I am reusing parts from the model as much as possible. But i realize its probably my 80th 1/16 scale tank build over past 4 decades... Hope this can help other modellers like i was influenced by others when i started.

Continuing with the build, the following two posts are for the air filters.


The air filters of the M-60A1 RISE are made up of a few panels. It is nice to represent these instead of the monobloc aspect of the TONGDE model. Be aware that i have seen early M-60A1 air filters with a different style of side panel. Check your references depending on the version of the M-60 you are building.

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Recessed lines were scribed with the back of a blade and a metal ruler. However, its easier said than done. Its the first scratch that is critical to be well positionned, the following ones that make the line deeper usually follow the lead of the first one. Just be careful not to go sideways when scribing the plastic, it is quite soft.

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The side bins are messy and could be better, but i made a decision to use them and simply clean them up, fill the empty back and bottom with a plasticard section, added spacers at the back of the mounts, reduced the thickness of the mount and added a 1mm Meng Hex bolt head. Honestly, it would have been simpler to just create these from scratch, and more accurate.

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The air filters heads are too short.

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I extended the section so that it connect to the engine block instead of having a 3mm gap.

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The air filter head has bolt heads in a complex arrangement that is completely missing from the model.

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The sets of plastic Meng Hex bolt heads were either too small (1mm) or too large (1.4mm). What would have been required was a 1.2mm hex bolt head and they do not make it. So, in desperation, i used brass M0.6 bolts, cut some lenght of them, and positionned them on a inverted Meng SPS-008 1.5mm bolt head. This is a cheap and dirty attempt to show the air filter head with bolts without spending a week on them.

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And here are the enhanced air filters. It took me about 5 hours of work on a cold day. WIth a cooler head tomorrow, i might improve them, It would require making the raise section bigger so that it overlaps with the base of the bolt heads. i`ll see. There are also those 3 hinges on the top that could be larger and better.

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The V shaped pull handle is made of 0.5mm brass wire with a small 0.5mm inner brass tube.

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Continuing on following post.

[lmcq11]

A couple more pictures and the model as it stands today.


The bolt heads coming with the model on the frontal top panel were too large and misplaced. Redone with Meng 1mm hex bolt heads. The ones on the following top panel are ok.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Notice how the air filters now connect to the engine block.

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Next step, the driver`s hatch.

Regards, Louis

[Ecam]

I think I have almost as much fun watching your builds as I do working on mine. 80 builds?!? I thought I was bad with around 20 in eight years. I guess if I was doing this for 40 years....

[lmcq11]

I think I have almost as much fun watching your builds as I do working on mine. 80 builds?!? I thought I was bad with around 20 in eight years. I guess if I was doing this for 40 years....

I build my first plane at 6, an X-15 then never stopped. I was mostly in the 1/35 armor in the 80s but did the Tamiya 1/16 Sherman, King Tiger and Leopard 1A4. Then in the 90s i did Bandai 1/15 German armor and a few RC planes. Then i discovered the Verlinden 1/15 resin armor range and did most of them. In the year 2000, i discovered the Heng Long range and rebuilt lots of Panzer IIIs, IV, Stugs, Panthers and Tigers in so many versions and conversions that i became totally fed up with Panzers. Then i did almost all the Sherman variants, then moved to modern armor. Then 5 years ago i switched to scratch building Ludwig kits, then my own creations and also converted static models to RC. Yeah, if you do a few models per years, it adds up fast.

[Ecam]

I remember as a kid being jealous of the older guys with many unbuilt kits in their closets. I was saving my allowance to buy a kit every other week or so.....

Now I'm that older dude with unbuilt kits....

My favorite memories were around 14-15 (mid 70s). I lived a mile or so from a small air strip. I met a guy who owned a hanger at the airport and wanted me to build plane kits that he would hang from the ceiling. He would supply the kits and when finished I would get a ride in a plane. My favorite rides were in open cockpit biplanes. Did I mention the end of the runway was a half mile from the Pacific ocean about 30 miles north of San Diego? Flying along the coast was always a great ride.

We didn't wear helmets when riding bicycles and I never had to ask permission from my parents. I remember getting home and asking my dad if he heard the stagger wing Beechcraft or the Stearman fly over? And telling him I was on board. My first ride in a Biplane the pilot told me to get in front, to which I told him I did not know how to fly a plane...