RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Cheers boss.

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Since I usually rework my upper/lower hull for magnets and remove the external battery tray access, I end up adding a 2mm Styrene stiffener between the motors and the rest of the lower hull. Other than an opening for the motor wires (I rarely use smokers), that stiffening bulkhead keeps the oils/greases from my MFU/Speaker. Not so worried about a small bit of castoff on the upper hull.

The foam on the output shafts is a great idea for those who do not use output axle shaft supports (with a sealed bearing).

OK, here's a very simple method for keeping the grease where it belongs

A very simple fix Max
I fit a frame over my PZ4 gearboxes to carry the switches under the drivers hatch which I don't think would work with your ingenious idea,
Until I saw your video I imagined from your description that you had stuck a sheet of pre-cut card onto the back of the gearbox frames rather than looping over them thereby separating the gearboxes from the rest of the hull interior,
I shall continue with my method because apart from fitting switches over the gearboxes I am able to clean and lube the gears without taking anything apart.
I love the lateral thinking though

Jarndice, that is a great idea to box in the gearbox and create a shelf for the switches, now that is something I shall have to steal me thinks. Thank you for the idea, I have been struggling with how to get the switches under the hatches.

Gearboxes should land today, so tomorrow I shall make a pilgrimage out to my local hobby shop and pick up some evergreen rods to start construction.

I use 2mm plasticard for the shelf and the legs,
Parts of a bean can,(Other food tins are suitable ) NOT soft drinks tins the metal is too thin.
A pin vice,
The PZ4 Heng Long/Taigen Set of switches,
10 small self tapping screws and 2 countersunk headed screws.
My shelf is 11 Cms long X 2.5 Cms wide,
The legs are 5 Cms long X 2 Cms wide,
The legs are butted against the end of the shelf and glued in place.
The bean can is cut into 2 squares` each of which is 2 Cms X 2Cms and bent into an "L" shape, These are used to reinforce the shelf to leg attachment points and are attached to the leg/shelf by 8 of the self tapping screws, 4 screws for each square.
The switch fits into a slot cut into the the shelf under the hatch, Do make sure the switch works in the off as well as the on position through the hatch,
It is held by the remaining 2 self tapping screws,
Do ensure the switch base is clear of the gears,
The legs should be butted upto the inside of the hull.
Pin Vice a hole through the hull into the leg, Then using a countersunk drill bit hollow the entrance to the hole and screw the countersunk screw through the hull and leg to lock the shelf in place,
Trust me you wont notice the screw once everything is assembled.
The Radio Operators MG LED Wiring has to go OVER the shelf which is why the length of the legs are important.
Too high the Wiring is under the shelf and the MG becomes immobile` too short and the switch contacts the gears.
There are other ways of fitting switches under the hatch but this method uses materials that most of us will have to hand.

Perfect, thank you for the detailed write up, shall follow this when I start construction hopefully this weekend, need to pick up some materials tomorrow.

Well usps failed me, bogus tracking info, who knows when the gear boxes will show up. Taken a month for them to get here now, mildly annoyed with the wait.

Well, if everything came when it should we’d have nothing to complain about!

Great work BTW.


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Thanks boss. I shouldn't grumble really, was just excited to have the gear boxes in my hands this weekend. apparently they are now in my area, so I expect them to land sometime this week. Will keep every one updated when they land.