RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

c.rainford73 wrote:You sir are the king of Zimmerit

Cheers Mr Rainford, its a bit rougher than it should be at the moment, but once the cam goes on, it will blend better I'm sure.
My preference is to use the hot screwdriver method as I find it much more controllable.
This version having the separate square blocks mixed with the vertical serrations in each block made that impossible.
Regardless of the medium used to present the base-Miliput or anything else- being a putty or spreadable substance, its hard to get consistently thick, and has a finite workable time window.
The use and application of Zimmerit is another subject for modelling that is as much a complex scenario as what is the "right" shade for German Dunkelgelb Yellow !!
Each factory had patterns for the various tank marque's they made
Each pattern had its own reason for that style
There were field applications for the stuff
There were rear-area applications-not factory-not infield, with yet more versions, on various marques.
Its a fascinating subject.

PainlessWolf wrote:Good Evening, Herman!
It is a beaut' already! Nice to look at a well done tank as I have been slaving away on a truck for forever. Following along.
regards,
Painless

Thanks Mr Wolf, its never going to be an Angelic Requiem that is Mr Selkirks 'A' , but as long as it looks like a ragged 'D' dozer, that'll work for this kid
Im working on gathering material for the blade mounts now.
Needs to be built like the proverbial "brick-s--thouse" to withstand the abuse I intend to subject it to.

This other angle of the dozer shows a glimpse of the possible camo pattern on the lower hull at least.
going by the dates this thing may have been produced, do any of you have any recommendations as to the relevant colours that seem to form the pattern ?
Any similar patterns on an early Panther that might be indicative ?

thanks fellas.

HERMAN BIX wrote:This other angle of the dozer shows a glimpse of the possible camo pattern on the lower hull at least.
going by the dates this thing may have been produced, do any of you have any recommendations as to the relevant colours that seem to form the pattern ?
Any similar patterns on an early Panther that might be indicative ?

thanks fellas.

RAL 8012 Red Oxide Primer
RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb base coat (dark yellow)
RAL 6003 Olivegruen (olive green)
RAL 8017 Rotbraun (red brown)
RAL 9001 Cremeweiss (interior)

Got the colours, thanks, any reference for a pattern from back then in the early D days ?

I formed my own exhaust pipes out of brass tube(toob to you left hand drivers!)
Heated the material with a butane burner to anneal it, got it to glow red.
Then keeping constant heat and load on it, gently curved the section into a tighter and tighter radius.
Cut the end off to the near angle, and cut the extra length off the bottom of the pipe.
Took 3 goes to get a reasonable radius, but they will do.
Certainly not Schumo parts, but not the cost either.
They will be fine.
I will use P.E. sprue to make the support bracket strap and the bin clasps.
Have also recovered the Pantiger tool frames off the donor.
They will be fitted once the running gear is on, then a few extra details will be added to enhance the look of them.
My next little mini project is to find material I can use to form a very damaged aerial/cleaning rod holding cylinder & fit the multitude of securing straps for all the various hangers.
No point using an Aber PE cylinder, its going to be squashed.
The 'G' plastic one wont look right.
I will try aluminium (thats aloominm for you left hand drivers!!) used to flash roofing joins & see if that looks right.

There were no set patterns as the tanks were delivered to the troops in the base coat only and the troops then applied rotbraun and olivegruen as they saw fit

Those exhausts look super mr Bix

Looking good Herman!

I am looking forward to seeing your build of the dozed blade. It's going to make a unique piece to your collection.

Barry

Thanks lads. It’s a simple build over all with a bit of hassle on the side plates, but the blade will be an increased challenge.
Been thinking that the leverage and weight will load the printed PzI wheels tompoint of failure.
I think I will need to have the blade travel downwards limited by resting on stops of some sort to take the full weight off the support wheels.
Design work on the fly

Dragged out a roll of roof flashing that I got years ago.
Used an inner cylinder out of an airsoft barrel to make a forming tool.
Cut a strip off the flashing material, rolled it around the airsoft tube and marked the excess with a pencil.
Cut the excess off with good scissors.
Rolled the joint..........(not that type ) and secured with super glue.
Used left over P.E. sprue strips as the hoop brackets and angled them slightly rearward as if they have been bashed on the front forcing them back.I still need to disrupt the entire tube as per the picture.
Caps and securing chains to be added.
According to the documented experts, these tube straps were the only hull accessory welded to the hull. All others were bolted onto the top deck.

Ive got wheels, drive & idlers, and engine deck mesh to fit before any further outer hull work.
There's spare track hangers, tow cable pegs and various pins & clasps to add, but not until the rough handling is over with.
And that will not be until the blade is mounted...................