Hobby Engine Abrams converted to Heng Long M1A2

[AlwynTurner]

Hi GG, just finished removing the box from the back end and re-positioning the lights - looks much better. I am currently fitting the heng long turrret motor which is a bit fiddly but getting there - thanks to tankbear for the advice at the MAD meeting. Alwyn

[greengiant]

Yea that big old box at the rear I have never been able to find in any pictures of the real thing. After moving the lights there is a small box for the ground troop to tank intercom on the right side and a vent on the left. You can see them in the pic of the rear of mine.

[wibblywobbly]

I was reading down this and saw that you had a mystery problem with the turret rotation, I have made the same mistake, usually because I have also made use of scavanged parts and used the upper/lower hull 8 pin connector, and the 'other' end is reversed wiring. Glad to see you found it.

What you can do if you are careful is push out the pins from the plastic surround and then put them back in with the correct colour order. On custom builds I now push the pins out and only keep the ones that I need (I usually only use turret +/-, elevation +/-, and lights +/-) as it tidy's up the loom a bit and there is no risk of unused bare wires dangling about.

I did know someone once who spent a huge amount of time converting one of these. He even did the road wheels, sprockets and idler to remove the slop so that he could fit decent tracks and keep the guide horns in line.

That said, I have seen the Leopard version quite happily scamper about on rough terrain without a problem, and only detracking under abuse, so although they look fragile, they are quite strong.

At the end of the day, the electrics are relatively easy, and you will end up with a tank for £10, which is a bit of a bargain.

RobG

[AlwynTurner]

Did some research on here
http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/jeff_d ... php?Page=1
which I have found to be a really useful source of info on the detail of the Abrams. Then set about remodelling the derriere of mine:

Looks prettier. Then fitted the heng long turret motor as advised by tankbear

I mounted it on three sprues, and then added a couple more so I could secure the motor without gluing it in. This is a bit 'belt and braces' but I don't want that motor coming adrift if the gun gets whacked while manouvering. The motor is gutsier than the HE original and gives a much faster turret turn rate.
Now down to the recognition panels on the side and back, pinlining, weathering, and then it's ready for action! Alwyn

[greengiant]

Rear end looking much better AT.
Those little tabs that stick out at the top of the rear engine grill are actually lift rings and if you drill some holes through them they will look more like they are suppose to.

[PainlessWolf]

Good morning Alwyn,
Great job here! I am going to show yours, Greengiant's and Tankbear's builds on this version to my friend to show him what is possible with a Hobby Engine Abrams. He has my (very old) one and I'm trying to perk his interest in rc tanks as a Hobby.
regards,
Painless

[greengiant]

If he has an interest in military things its a good way to start. I tried to get my youngest brother interested but his thing is Harleys and he has so little interest in the military that the only time he knows its there is when something flashy is reported about it on tv. He does like war movies though. Go figure.

[AlwynTurner]

Hi Painless/Greengiant, Thanks for the input, yes I have been very agreeably surprised at what can be achieved for very little outlay, and as I practice with the controls I am finding it very responsive provided you are very gentle with the control stick. one small problem I have is that there is a lot of play in the turret mounting, I think I need a nylon washer between the mounting dish underneath and the upperhull, just need to find the appropriate piece of nylon, then grease it lightly. The paints I used were cheap acrylic from our local Works outlet but they must be available from any art supplies shop, suitably mixed and thinned.

I think my total outlay for the tank (£25), an RX18 (£12), styrene (probably less than £5), balsa wood (£5), and paint (£5), tots up to less than £55 which compared to what you guys spend on the add-ons to your tanks is small change money (but about what I can afford)! The interesting thing is how impressive the tank looks when all done, I really wasn't expecting it when I started, it has a real presence to it. Just shows what can be achieved with someone else's throw-out and some time and patience! Thanks to everyone for all the feedback and input; it has been very informative, useful ,and motivating.
p.s. I think I've spotted a cheapy tank that might just be feasible to convert into a 1/16 centurion but I'm keeping that one quiet until/if I get my sticky mits on it! Alwyn

[greengiant]

Grease is not a good idea. any type of grit that gets into it will grind the plastic even build up in the grease until the turret stops moving even if you use a plastic safe grease. A better choice for lube is graphite powder that you can find in most hardware stores in a tube that used to puff the powder into house or car door locks to keep them working even if they get wet and temps get below freezing.
Also makes a good lube for the plastic axels of the road wheel of HE and HL tanks. Helps to keep water and the grit in it out of the space between the axels and the road wheels.

[AlwynTurner]

Thanks Greengiant, will try and lay my hands on some. Regards Alwyn