Heng Long Tanks - Advanced Modifications

[ALPHA]

Just an added note.... I've got to take a gander at many of Sassgrunt's builds...almost all his tanks run bearings...yes they are very smooth...thing is ..many of his "Chassis" (without upper or full internals ) weigh in at 10 lbs+...so I could understand his reasoning for going in that direction

ALPHA

[ALPHA]

Alpha, its all good... Yeah, my tanks do weigh a bit more, they should weigh a lot more, sometimes I think they are solid gold as much time and money I have put in them, thank goodness the Mrs. digs them so I don't have to justify the need for more armor!

Cheers!

No Problem Eastern...the Silver lining to the whole discussion is there is probably enough info here that others can decide for themselves...

ALPHA

[Saxondog]

Absolutely the point, options. This discussion and many others creates ideas,options and hell just somthing to attempt for many who may never otherwise even contemplate these mods.

I've been down this design road often lately,including this morning until 540am just to create solutions for the King Tiger upper hull in abs material which could be laser cut,

Thanks Christian for your continued inspiration! Just like many of our lively discussions create ideas not everyone has considered. Christians crossmember supports techniques upscaled to 1/6th has allowed me to create a 10 piece sectional hull which glues together.

Once built is rock solid. Solving many of the manufacturing issues the King Tigers sloped armor presented if manufactured in metal. Also this clearly demonstrated why Torro chose a metal lower and plastic upper for the metal edition King Tiger.

So what's next Chris?

cheers Saxondog

[CanadianBulldog22]

Chris, Edwin uses sensorless outrunners from hobbyking in his tanks with excellent results...

Tomhugill,

I have used sensored outrunners on projects as well. Its a good idea as they generally produce more torque for their size than inrunners. I just don't like how they by design have to be end mounted. I like inrunners that have a front flange type mount.


Chris

[CanadianBulldog22]

Chris, Edwin uses sensorless outrunners from hobbyking in his tanks with excellent results...

Tomhugill,

I have used sensored outrunners on projects as well. Its a good idea as they generally produce more torque for their size than inrunners. I just don't like how they by design have to be end mounted. I like inrunners that have a front flange type mount.


Chris

[CanadianBulldog22]

Hey All,

I want to thank everyone for their input, this has been a great experience for me so far. I am glad I can learn from everyone's knowledge and experience.

Next up, I will post Topic #6: Replace MFU with stand alone electronics sometime tomorrow afternoon.

I will try to cover the MFU explained topic at the same time.

This topic will cover how to eliminate the MFU completely and supplement with relay's, brushless motors, servos, a standard RX, voltage regulators, and a nano Arduino board. I will try to take pictures and add links to the post.


Your feedback is greatly appreciated.


Chris

[ALPHA]

Hey All,

I want to thank everyone for their input, this has been a great experience for me so far. I am glad I can learn from everyone's knowledge and experience.

Next up, I will post Topic #6: Replace MFU with stand alone electronics sometime tomorrow afternoon.

I will try to cover the MFU explained topic at the same time.

This topic will cover how to eliminate the MFU completely and supplement with relay's, brushless motors, servos, a standard RX, voltage regulators, and a nano Arduino board. I will try to take pictures and add links to the post.


Your feedback is greatly appreciated.


Chris

Count me out on that one lol... like my HL new gen 2.4 it's good enough for me right now...with that said..I'm sure it will be an educational discussion

ALPHA

[CanadianBulldog22]

Hey All,

I want to thank everyone for their input, this has been a great experience for me so far. I am glad I can learn from everyone's knowledge and experience.

Next up, I will post Topic #6: Replace MFU with stand alone electronics sometime tomorrow afternoon.

I will try to cover the MFU explained topic at the same time.

This topic will cover how to eliminate the MFU completely and supplement with relay's, brushless motors, servos, a standard RX, voltage regulators, and a nano Arduino board. I will try to take pictures and add links to the post.


Your feedback is greatly appreciated.


Chris

Count me out on that one lol... like my HL new gen 2.4 it's good enough for me right now...with that said..I'm sure it will be an educational discussion

ALPHA

ALPHA,

From what I have heard (and no first hand experience) the 2.4 ghz receiver/transmitter in the new gen HL are not spread spectrum wireless. This would mean you could still potentially get interference. That could be bullshit though. I am not sure, just what I have heard.


Chris

[ALPHA]

ALPHA,

From what I have heard (and no first hand experience) the 2.4 ghz receiver/transmitter in the new gen HL are not spread spectrum wireless. This would mean you could still potentially get interference. That could be bullshit though. I am not sure, just what I have heard.


Chris

So far so good with the new gen HL 2.4 ...so plans are apply them to all of my tanks...I don't battle with others ... and when I do I usually lone my tanks out ...it's rare that my buddies will go out and purchase their own....the Hobby isn't that big here

With that said...I do have a couple of projects coming up that I will probably have to break away from the standard and use a multifunction set up... so yeah... I hope there is a lot of banter like there was with the suspension so there are valuable points come into play.... but if it just turns into a kind of sales pitch for certain boards TXs and RXs .... it really won't be of much benefit IMO....there is already a thread by someone who is finding the limitations of the clarks board

I always keep that stuff in mind....as then I can weigh the positives and the negatives to setting up anything

Hope you do get responses ...because it's the only way people learn


ALPHA

[CanadianBulldog22]

Update on replacing the drive motors


I think i have found the largest motor that will fit without too many modifications. It's a brushless Turnigy motor (see picture attached). I was not sure if they would fit but I got really lucky. It is tight, there is only about 1 mm of clearance between the motors when installed. See my picture for the exact motor part number.

These motors are 3s 24a 2800kv motors. That's a lot of total power for a 1/16 scale even at 12-15lbs.

24a × 2(motors) × 11.1v (3s lipo) = 532.8 watts in × 0.8 (efficiency) =426.24 watts out / 749 (convert to hp) = 0.56 hp (1/2 hp is not bad in my mind).

At 24 amps and 2800 kv the torque constant would be 0.484 oz-inch/A. At 24a that's a max torque (per motor) of 11.6 oz-inch. With the 50:1 reduction that becomes 580.71 oz-inch or 3.02 lb-ft per track. Total of 6.04 lb-ft of max torque between both motors. That's 0.4 lb-ft/lbs (torque to weight ratio). That's super bike territory, literally. I will set the acceleration to super soft and hope that I don't spin the tracks off.

BTW if anyone is wonders about pinion gears. These motors have the standard 3.175mm shafts. I found a place that sells 10 toot, 3.175mm, 48 pitch steel pinion gears, with a set screw (not press fit). These work great for aftermarket motors since the stock pinions are press fit on the dc motor shafts.

Anyone got more powerful motors that will fit without going crazy.

Chris