RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Tiger6 wrote:Have a word with Frank, he's managed to get recoil into one of his 6pdr guns.

In other news, I'll soon have a suitable towing vehicle for you...

I have some ideas for recoil. But there isn't alot of space on this thing. I will maybe realise somepoint in 2020. Want to get on with some others for change of scenery.

You have me intrigued with towing vehicle?

Is the fusion 360 share library still operational?

Yes it is. I notice that they have moved me onto a dedicated non commercial licence but other than that I see nothing different in Fusion. I'll add you to that folder when I'm done (hopefully by the end of the week) - no sense in sharing stuff that isn't ready to print

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive 3D printer big enough to print hulls?

Creality CR10S4 - hands down the winner. 40 x 40 cm print area, and spare parts are readily available. Well supported by the 3D print community in terms of settings and tweaks. Upgrades to make the printer run more quietly are also available.

I picked up mine from Ebay earlier in the year, cost just under 400 quid. Bear in mind that the ambient temperature around the printer, the method of getting the print to stick (i.e. glue, hair spray, or masking tape) and your choice of filament will all effect your results. if the air around and over the printer is too cold (i.e. right about this time of year!) you will find your prints curling up and peeling off the bed no matter how hard you try to keep them stuck

The one downside of 'bowden' printers is that they struggle with softer filaments, so you will struggle to run soft TPU if you want to print realy flexible tires - harder materials like flexible PLA are available, but only from specific retailers like Rigid.ink

Hope this helps.

S

Tiger6 wrote:Creality CR10S4 - hands down the winner. 40 x 40 cm print area, and spare parts are readily available. Well supported by the 3D print community in terms of settings and tweaks. Upgrades to make the printer run more quietly are also available.

I picked up mine from Ebay earlier in the year, cost just under 400 quid. Bear in mind that the ambient temperature around the printer, the method of getting the print to stick (i.e. glue, hair spray, or masking tape) and your choice of filament will all effect your results. if the air around and over the printer is too cold (i.e. right about this time of year!) you will find your prints curling up and peeling off the bed no matter how hard you try to keep them stuck

The one downside of 'bowden' printers is that they struggle with softer filaments, so you will struggle to run soft TPU if you want to print realy flexible tires - harder materials like flexible PLA are available, but only from specific retailers like Rigid.ink

Hope this helps.

Hi Martin, sorry not to disagree a little, i love my S4, however i actually still find i use my Ender3's more than the S4! I tend to only use for long larger builds, but it takes 35mins to heat the build plate and means sometimes i just don't have enough time to get it going before going out.
It obviously depends the size of the hull, but maybe the smaller CR10s will do the job, i have done alot of other bigger builds on E3 though. But yeah i suppose S4 would be easier or S5 bigger still. Depends how big hulls you need!
My 251 will most likely be done on the E3 i think and will seperate into parts, but we will see. Orientation of print is also an important factor
I love the E3 as it a quick warm up and with little upgrades they are quick and good little printers for doing build trials on. Once i know they work then i tend to print more than 1 part and spread out over the S4.

I will be getting a CR10s3 i think it is so has 300x300 plate so i have an intermediary and 1 more E3 for converting over to direct drive for flexible stuff etc

Some new things i been working on printing whilst i have no ability to design CAD stuff.
Although now i have more stuff to design as i always find stuff that isn't quite right lol

Scaled up diesel loco for 1/16 scale(because scale matching is now very important hehe



So this little thing will have twin axle drive and real working suspension

I also designed some cool modular acles, these ones specifically for WPL metal leaf springs, but others on their way for multilink setups


Playing with a kubelwagen and making new parts using only a slicer on a crappy laptop

Front axle(ok not quite right, but strong and reliable for the kubel

Narrow axle for kubel

Don't worry when i get a working CAD pc again i will design multilink sus for it maybe this time next year after doing other more pressing stuff haha
Front freewheels and rear hex drive for kubel & tamiya 1/16 balloon tyres


Also made a US M3A4 infantry cart


Still doing alot of Pak40 bits and pieces like tow hitch and leg clamps and pins for shields etc, but its all looking good.
Wondering how the tyre printing trials are going, so will look into that. Now i just need to find the right size springs for the sus setup!

Testing on the dual winches for my Mack M123 truck.

3d printed modular axle
Can make different width and mount designs for trucks using the 3mm wpl diff internals whether plastic or metal.
Leaf sprung or 4 linked, no problem

Fantastic work on the axles Will, very useful for some of the smaller builds

Cheers, Lee.

Will01Capri wrote:Some new things i been working on printing whilst i have no ability to design CAD stuff.
Although now i have more stuff to design as i always find stuff that isn't quite right lol

Scaled up diesel loco for 1/16 scale(because scale matching is now very important hehe

I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a Lego train power unit under this?