Matorro King Tiger w/ Tamiya-HL upgrade

[Saxondog]

Interesting as always,never boring for sure.I trimmed my barrels with a tubing cutter and it worked very well.Did your inner barrel fit? I had to line bore mine in order for the inner barrel to slide at recoil,and so the 6mm ammo would fire without jamming.So what paint scheme is rolling around in that mind of your's? I'm sure it will be exceptional.cheers Blake

[xrad]

Everything fits and slides perfectly, no significant looseness. No BB fire on this one, just flash and recoil.

Cammo: ......hmmmm.......something well used with rust...no particular arena.

[xrad]

Pics:
Did some wiring...got the gearboxes squared up a little better. Built the recoil/flash unit.

Posted a vid on YT. Fastest speed is shown on video..probably a scale 20-23mph. NOISEY even after all the gearbox work. Sounds like the real thing... Powerful..easily goes over my foot.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9f4VVRgnHw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[[ICE]monkey]

looking good , keep them coming, like the vid, see what you mean they are noisy
regards, ice

[xrad]

Sound is just a little louder than scale....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sqjTkrFM48" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[xrad]

Been outside as of late and not done too much on the Tiger B, but i did manage a little work over the last few evenings as it has been raining here. Sax's PM's got me going again!!

Some more detail to rear end. 2000 ohm on a blue led...probably need another 1000.

Can't have too many tow shackles!

I have a new theory on my tank builds. it goes like this and applies to me:

Build a really good tank but don't go crazy on tiny tiny details as I am going to run it outside. BUT, do an awesome paint job so that the tiny details won;t be missed. Basically, I can build a great tank and kill it with a cheap paint job OR I can build a good tank, and make it great with an awsome paintjob.

So that is the plan for this build. It has already been four months, but I am getting there...

[xrad]

Almost done the wiring. Some PITA stuff converting from Matorro to HL wiring harness. MAto is 10pin HL is 8pin. You just need to know the output of the 8 pins and no real problem. Added metal machine gun w/led. And then did my usual recoil wiring mod with voltage regulator and 3 diodes. works like a champ...although the recoil length is somewhat limited by the HL recoil mechanism.

CHeers.

vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQNtgjbyorg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[xrad]

started some detail work. electrics pretty much done....

just takes a large amount of effort to get this together.

Tracks from Germany?poland
spares from Poland
many parts from GB
all the major hull parts from Japan
wheels from Germany?
MT kit from China
Gearboxes from China via Phillipines?
Electronics from USA
many ebay extras from who knows where..

wow...probably 150$ in postage alone!

[xrad]

Received some pm questions regarding the build. Thanks for the compliments!

But, First off, no matter how many models you have built or have not built, I would not start with my KT mod. Yes you could probably do it, but it would behoove you to begin with a less complex build/mod. An exellent starter would be the HL stug upgraded to metal hull and wheels/motors all found at RCCommand AND much less costly ...see my stug build.

Even the Jagdpanther is a GREAT build and better for beginner than KT. Reason is less electronics, mechanics to deal with. Smaller model, goes together more easily. PArts can be sourced from 1-2 dealers for EVERYTHING.

Remember that many of these parts are vehicle specific, but not necessarily sold as such. For example, many tammy tank motors out there but only one shaft length for KT II. So you could make expensive mistakes and find out too late after all put together. Anyway, make smart buys and carefully select the parts.

But if you just can't wait and are ready to spend 1000$ or more, here are some answers to your questions...

1) what is benefit of metal hull?
I find that working with the metal hull allows more room inside for electronics and added lead weights. I can easily fashion metal braces and other items. I like to 'bolt' on metal parts, etc...Tammy already did the hard work and the parts are out there..

Also, tons of spares made for Tamy metal hulls (especially JP and Tiger)

Is it better than a plastic hull?? I think that for me the metal hull set up is much better in terms of durability and adaptability. Larger metal hulls like the JP and KT have LESS torsional strength than a comparable plastic hull, but can easily be rienforced with cross bracing.

2) If you use a metal hull, you will need all the tammy parts for easy assembly and correct function. Please read through my jagdpanther build as well from beginning to end. For me, the fit and function of the metal hull parts from many different sources is excellent and worth the effort to find them all. As far as motion, The metal pieces vs the plastic: no comparison, metal much more realistic (IMHO)

3) the list of parts needed is long, I will not list accessories. These you can review at RCCOmmand or Welshdragonmodels.

Basically, you need:

tammy hull
tammy torsion bars
tammy torsion bar mounts (the long skinny metal pieces)
tammy torsion arms
tammy torsion arm carriers
upgrade rear idler arm locking mechanism AND all the tammy parts for the rear idler arms
welsh dragon tiger screw kit (buy two)
MT KTII for all the upper hull parts
HL electronics (transmitter, receiver, DMD, harnesses and connectors, battery, recoil unit) you can use the MT gun elevator and gun rotator.
Metal wheel kit ...BUT get the right one for the Tammy hull (different axles)
Upgraded late war tracks and idlers and drive wheels (idlers come with axles but will need 2mmx12mm long screws)
impact gearboxes(or tammy WITH extra 3:1 reduction gear you have to buy separately)
Impact drive guards
all the correct sized grub screws and motor mounts/screws...

Of course you will need a drill and epoxy and metal and files and dremmel helpful and big workspace. You will need to fashion many items including a floor to seperate the electronics from the torsion bars and an oil splash guard for the motors.

I did a really involved main gun rebuild that most people would not bother with. You could use the MT gun, but it is just BB and no recoil/flash...save some dough.

cost will be close to the basic Tammy kit which you would have to upgrade anyway to get to where I am in this build, so it does save some money. All accessories extra cost on top.

Please read my whole build article above and look closely at the pics and you will see all the parts. Especially the idler pics.

PLEAS SEE:
My Stug III build with good pics
http://rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewt ... =22&t=4062" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

My Jagdpanther build. Many pics lost on old website, but pg 4 has some good shots
http://rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewt ... =22&t=3144" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[desmondchan]

Thank you so so much for your prompt response, not to mentioned it's very easily understood even by a novice like me!
Just a question on battery placement. I know for Tamiya the battery is placed on a metallic plate called the "mechanism deck" and one has to take out the turret every time for battery recharge. Wonder are you also going to modify the Mato upper hull/turret as well? As I know currently they are secure together with a turret ring/screws .....
Cheers.