RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Your correct on the lipo battery leads and esc connections
You can use a y lead (splitter) to connect the battery to the 2 escs using 2 female tamiya to 1 deans male
However if you can solder i would change the tamiya plugs to male deans connectors and make up a y lead using 1 male (connects to battery) and 2 female (connects to esc's)
Tamiya connectors are pretty crap nowadays (compared to other connectors) as they cant handle the power of modern motors and get a bit warm
Just make sure when you connect the esc's to the receiver you get them right way round the white is the signal wire and receiver should be marked - + and a sine wave symbol either on the case or the label with the channels
It doesnt matter if you connect the bullets red to blue or red to yellow and if motor spins wrong way just swap them round the motors arnt polarity sensitive
I found this 1
https://www.amazon.com.be/-/en/Switch-C ... 2RYS&psc=1
you can mount the switch and connect 1 side to battery and other side to your esc y lead
Sorry about long winded answer but hope it helps you out

Great! Compiling a shopping list as we speak. Thx.

On the RC side, this is where I am:



I added a master switch right after the battery. I presume this means I can leave both the ESC switches turned on by default?

Not connected yet: the receiver. I could already plug in the first ESC I guess but I want to first "cut" the red wire from the second ESC to the receiver by crimping a custom JST SYP 3-pin cable that only connects the outer wires (back and white). That way the ESC wiring remains intact. The stuff to do this arrives tomorrow. I already had a connector kit but I just learned that "2.54mm JST" does not fully determine the connector ... there's XH and there's SYP (and probably more).

Stormbringer wrote: ↑Fri Sep 19, 2025 1:49 am However if you can solder i would change the tamiya plugs to male deans connectors and make up a y lead using 1 male (connects to battery) and 2 female (connects to esc's) Tamiya connectors are pretty crap nowadays (compared to other connectors) as they cant handle the power of modern motors and get a bit warm.

I kept the Tamiya connectors in the loop. I can/could solder all right but I'm not confident I'd end up with a more solid connection than using the Tamiya connectors. I know my weak points
.

Its quite easy to remove the red wire from the jst receiver plug
just part the 3 wires and using a pin or similar
on the plug you see the connectors
using the pin theres a wee metal tag on it just push it forward then press down and slide it back
the red wire complete with connector should just slide out
theres a little plastic bit in the plug that engages the wee tab of the connector so all your doing is disengaging the wee tab from the moulding so it can come out
if you use a maginifying glass youl see it easier

Stormbringer wrote: ↑Mon Sep 22, 2025 4:36 pm Its quite easy to remove the red wire from the jst receiver plug
just part the 3 wires and using a pin or similar
on the plug you see the connectors
using the pin theres a wee metal tag on it just push it forward then press down and slide it back
the red wire complete with connector should just slide out
theres a little plastic bit in the plug that engages the wee tab of the connector so all your doing is disengaging the wee tab from the moulding so it can come out
if you use a maginifying glass youl see it easier

That reminds me of this SNL skit so much: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGRcJQ9tMbY
.

ROFLMAO mate good sketch

What is that power switch between your battery and the ESCs rated for? Keep in mind that because you have your battery running through that switch, that switch should be rated to handle as much amperage as you could draw from all of the electronics/motors in the vehicle. When I installed the switch in my 1/10th Jagdtiger, I found a 40A switch to ensure it can handle the draw of everything.

tankme wrote: ↑Wed Sep 24, 2025 8:53 am What is that power switch between your battery and the ESCs rated for? Keep in mind that because you have your battery running through that switch, that switch should be rated to handle as much amperage as you could draw from all of the electronics/motors in the vehicle. When I installed the switch in my 1/10th Jagdtiger, I found a 40A switch to ensure it can handle the draw of everything.

It's rated 6V 12A. Would that realistically be a problem? With a battery rated 6200mAh, 80C theoretically I'd need a 500A switch to be really safe I guess. I don't know what the ESC's will draw in my build, I really have no experience with this. This switch was listed "Heavy Duty RC Switch: with 6V working voltage and 12A working current, this switch is designed to handle the high power needs for model aircraft."

On the topic of the main switch, I decided not to take chances and ordered this switch instead: https://www.amazon.com.be/-/en/Nuofany- ... B0BFHZ9XYX

Rated 24v, 35A - that should do it I guess.

In the meantime some progress. And introducing Carl the Cargo Carrier, driver in training.

Wow your fairly rocketing ahead with this mate