RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

How did i just notice this thread? Amazing build.

Thank you Ratrace and Kaczor,

Hi everyone,

I need help on something.

I am configuring an Elmod Fusion Pro to work with the Bradley. This is the recoil mechanism that comes with the kit. Does anyone has information on how to setup such recoil motor for the 25mm turret autocannon ?

I was planning to assign the Bradley autocannon as the main machine gun (Browning M2) and the coax as the auxiliary. Its very simple for flash and sound but how to make this little motor turn in synch with the cadence of the flash and sound ?

If anyone know, i would appreciate.

Thanks, Louis

hey,

just an idea:
Simply connect the motor to the power supply for the muzzle flash (MG/MK).
you should be able to change or adjust the cadence in the software.
After all, the retraction is simply attached to an eccentric disc.


greeting

RAlf

Usually I don't really follow modern builds, but I'm glad I read through this one. Amazing fabricating skills. This will be one epic model once finished!

RiskyR wrote: ↑Fri Dec 16, 2022 7:15 pm Usually I don't really follow modern builds, but I'm glad I read through this one. Amazing fabricating skills. This will be one epic model once finished!

Thanks. Like everyone, i started with WW2 stuff. But after a lifetime of modelling and having exhausted interesting variants of Shermans, Panthers, Tigers, Panzer IVs... and basically tired of working with the same chassis over and over, i moved to modern armor and also recently the WW1 German A7V, which make it more interesting to me and bring additional challenges. But i like to go back to WW2 stuff once in a while.

Graf Ralf Fies wrote: ↑Fri Dec 16, 2022 6:41 pm hey,

just an idea:
Simply connect the motor to the power supply for the muzzle flash (MG/MK).
you should be able to change or adjust the cadence in the software.
After all, the retraction is simply attached to an eccentric disc.

Thanks, that's actually the first thing i tried to see what would happen but there is likely not enough voltage, nothing happens and i could see the control board did not like it because all the LEDs went dead. But after studying the Elmod Fusion Pro instructions, i came up with a solution. It is to connect the Bradley recoil motor to the smoke unit cable and switch, and to connect the gun sound/flash to the Auxiliary machine gun.

So, as shown below, the sequential process to fire the 25mm chain gun is to;
0- Select the auxiliary functions on the C switch of my FlySky 10 channel remote
1- Push the right stick up to turn on the recoil motor
2- Then immediately bring the stick down to trigger the Auxiliary Machine gun flash and sound
3- To stop, bring the stick up to stop shooting and turn off the recoil engine.

Recoil and flash/sound are in sync and can be triggered with one stick operation. I have to admit it is quite impressive to see the autocannon in action. Of course, i will create a video of the weapon systems in action once i am finished with installing the electronics and could show the whole thing properly.

In addition to the recoil motor and 25mm gun flash, the turret itself has 3 servos to organize with the control board;
1- 25mm chain gun autocannon and coax machine gun elevation
2- Raising the TOW missile launcher
3- TOW launcher pitch

It is just a bit sad that there is no control board on the market (that i know of) that has TOW missile launch, flash and sound.



The coax machine gun, once installed, will be assigned as the primary machine gun with flash and sound.


Regards, Louis

Continuing with the build

Moving on with the rear ramp because i needed to install the opening/closing servo before installing the control board.


View of the interior of the M2A3 Bradley rear ramp. Of special interest are the opening door and latch, and the two small round disks that are associated with visors to look through the ramp.


The kit rear ramp does not come with a completed interior. It also has holes that need to be hidden, including smaller holes meant to screw the ramp permanently on the chassis. It's ok, i needed to create the interior the way i want it anyway.


I had to make some compromises here and there in order to fit the model, ensuring it closes properly but i think it looks good and compares well to references.


The opening/closing mechanism is a push rod associated to a servo at the front of the vehicle. It goes through the opening apparatus as shown in reference, but i had to simplify the connector to ensure it is working well, simple and solid. The ramp is not light, especially being pulled from the bottom like this, anything too fansy would eventually break.


View of the push rod to the front.


View of the rear ramp servo that resides under where the control board will be installed.


View of the external rear ramp details.


The central and side tow hooks will be installed later as they would be damaged while manipulating the model during heavy construction.


The central turret basket cage cup is screwed to the bottom of the hull, but is removable if needed.


A slot was created at the bottom front of the cup that will allow all the turret cabling to exit the bottom of the cup and reach the control board, with enough loose cable to allow for turret rotation up to a at least one full 360. There is at least 1cm between the bottom of the cup and the bottom of the basket to allow for the cables to twist and turn in between.



Continuing on following post

Moving to the rear bins and rear lights


Reference View of the rear bins


These are the parts for the front and rear lights. Although the front lights look pretty good, i was not satisfied with the rear lights. They are not shaped correctly, the lamp is not centered inside the guards and are not oriented properly. For some reason that i have not seen in references, the lights are oriented towards the sides, looks weird.


I had a set of US MLRS front and rear lights from AFV-Model of Germany. I always like to keep these handy when you are in modern armor modelling. The issue with these is that they are molded in very hard metal and are difficult to work with. I could do the front lights as well but decided to only use these for the rear lights.


After removing the 3D printed rear lights from their guards, i installed the metal ones in a central position, oriented towards the back. A red LED from a LED kit was installed.


Installed on the rear bins. The LED cables go strait down through the bins and out from the back.


Close up on the rear red lights, the lens will be installed only after painting.


The bins are installed, the LED cables can be seen going through the back. The cables are reaching the front of the vehicles through the interior sides of the vehicle. Also installed are the mud guards above the idler wheels.


The model as it stands today.


Next step, the front lights.

Regards, Louis

Hi,

In order to install the front lights, the add-on armor plates under them needs to be installed. I also realized that the main screws to close the hull are located under them. Therefore, two specific plates at the front will need to remain removable using magnets in order to expose the screws under them. I could have designed a new closing mechanism for the hull but this is one thing i did not really have to change. The upper hull is heavy and thick, no real warping but it needs screws to properly close with all the wiring and other stuff inside.


I decided to install all the add-on armor plates on the hull at the same time. However, every plates had some distortions or some bending and could not be used as is. They have to be made totally flat, otherwise there is no glue in the world that will glue them flat on the hull, they have too much resistance. Each plates therefore went for 25 seconds into the microwave to heat them up, get flat on their own on the grass ware and then they were made to cool down on the kitchen marble counter. Be aware that my microwave needed exactly 25 seconds to reach the proper softness. Some other microwave could require more or less time depending on the power used. The idea is to warm the plastic only to a certain temperature without cooking it and destroying the part. Simple process to do and every plates were made absolutely flat. A couple of parts needed a do-over.


This is the Bradley exhaust stack on top of the right grill. Notices the bolt head types with washers and the metal mesh.


These are the exhaust stack parts provided with the kit. This specific grill was the part that needed the most flattening using the microware, it is now flat.


A metal mesh was created. It is always a dilemma to determine if the mesh available fits the model, it rarely does fit perfectly. This one is a bit thick but this is the closest grill material i had on inventory. I will determine later if its stays on or need replacement with a thinner one that i will have to order from somewhere.

The exhaust grill and stack are installed.


M1 brass hex bolts and washers were used. They also fit the pre-drilled holes. Although the kit provides regular micro screws to fit the stack, these brass hex bolts are accurate and look better.


These are the front plates that are the bases for the head lights. I have to make them removable.


I decided to cut the part on the left in three pieces as only the section under the headlight need to be removable, the others can be glued solidly to the hull, it makes things simpler.


Continuing on following post.

Two holes for two small magnets on every plate were drilled. The small hole for the wiring was made larger in order to fit the LEDs i used.


Shown here are the two removable plates under the headlights in raised status. The cable inside is loose but they have to follow a channel through the various braces inside. For the magnets to rest, I glued on the other side of the holes the first metal thing that fell on my hands on the workbench, some metal washers.


When put back in place, the magnets keep the the plates tight on the hull.


Each headlight has a 5mm white LED and a 3MM red LED for the turn signals.


The large plate on the front lower hull is installed and looking good.


Engine hatch is installed and looking good.


There is a working locking mechanism that is really appreciated.


Hatch open for maintenance.


Not sure yet what this is, likely an optical device, the cover can go up or down.


The fuel cap is installed


Continuing on following post

The fuel cap can be open or close, cute but not really helpful for anything.


Nice design, under the driver's hatch are pre-shaped holes for a regular RC battery power switch.


All the plates are installed on the hull. There are many little fine detail parts that can be added to the hull but will be added at the end of the build to avoid damage. All the tools will be added only after painting.


I have not yet analysed the situation regarding the side skirts. I will try to make them removable because they look really huge, have fragile parts and it is nice to be able to access the roadwheels with the tracks on without skirts and without having to open the hull.


This model is an M3A3 cavalry vehicle, not an M2A3 infantry vehicle. The periscope on the sides of the M2 fighting compartment are not installed on the M3. The M3 periscopes are located on the top rear hatch that will require modification. The periscopes on the side armor were removed, and the holes covered on the add-on armor.


This side had one periscope to remove for the M3 configuration.


Added the seats on the turret basket, up to the allowed height of the RC design.


Both are visible while the turret basket rotates.


Overview of the hull as it currently stand.


Next step, the turret.

Regards, Louis