RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Here is a video of the weapons system in action.

As seen in previous posts, the Tamiya Browning M2 was modified with new hollow brass barrel and upgraded with Aber PE. It contains an internal 3mm LED for gun flash and also to provide breech flash for extra special lighting effects.

Hi,
Presenting the M113 Lynx trim vane.

The M113 Lynx is equipped with a trim vane featuring a custom floater box. It can be lowered and it helps keeping the nose up when the vehicle is entering water. It would normally be extended at about 45 degrees for that. The manual unlocking mechanism is on the right. The basic part of the trim vane is made of plywood with metal sheets and bolts.
Like most M-113, the trim vane features a double hinge mechanism that will allow for the lowering all the way down to provide access to the gearbox inside. Notice the shape of the central extension part of the hinge, their position and orientation of the bolts. As the RC vehicle also need to give access to its gearbox, the modeller has no choice but to also provide some kind of similar access and create a mechanism.
Shown here from an extract from a Youtube video featuring a Lynx from the Ontario Regiment tank museum, the soldier dressed in 1980s Canadian airborne regiment uniform explains the maintenance operation of the Lynx when it was operational. The museum has functional vehicles to give rides to visitors. The trim vane is completely lowered down for maintenance on the gearbox.
On previous M113 builds, i used a micro hinge hidden under the trim vane, and vaguely replicated the real hinges for static display. This has not proven very successful because the trim vane does not lower realistically all the way down and has proven to be weak during maintenance work.

This time, I have decided that the best way to go is to replicate the M113 hinge mechanism as is. The key part of the M113 hinge is the central extension sections that need to be at the right length, and made real solid. I have therefore created a simple jig with brass rods to solder brass strips and tube sections together, creating central hinge parts with exactly the same length.
Then the parts are finetuned with a nail file. Imperfections will be corrected later with some putty and the enamel primer coat.
The four custom functional hinges are created. The plastic parts are a bit bigger than they should be in order to make them more solid.
The trim vane is being created in plasticard. The 1/35 kit has dimensional errors. Notice the issue with the 1/35 part on the top right of the picture below, the opening mechanism is completely squeezed on the right and too small. That created issues for me because i was mostly using the kit for hull dimensions. I fixed some issues but i have to live with others when they were not identified on time. M113 experts will notice a few issues here and there.
This is the M113 Lynx trim vane.

As it is a much exposed item right in front of the vehicle, i used M0.8 brass bolts and nuts to provide finer details.
The hinges are using M1x8 brass bolts. They are thoroughly tested for usability and solidity before installation on the hull.
Overview of the trim vane.
Continuing on following post

The trim vane is installed.
I was really happy to see that the functional hinges work perfectly and provide realistic lowering of the trim vane for accessing the gearbox hatch. The underside of the trim vane was not detailed.
The arm that holds the trim vane in open position is replicated in static fashion. I am not yet able or willing to take the time to make it functional...
The trim vane restraining arm in place, and in closed static position.
Overview of the vehicle with the trim vane. Notice the M-113A2 in the back. It provided some dimensional info on the locking mechanism.
Position of the trim vane when entering water.
Position of the trim vane when accessing the gearbox for maintenance. Notice how the trim vane is moved forward by the double hinges in order to clear the hull and be totally lowered down.
While the 1/16 M-113A2 with TOW missile launcher is on the work bench, here is a couple of pictures to compare the two vehicles. The Lynx is much lower, shorter and also narrower.
That's it for now. Next step is the rear of the vehicles.

Regards, Louis

Lovely bit of engineering to get those cantilevered dual hinges working, Louis. Definitely worth the effort!

Nicely done Louis!

Barry

It sure is a racy looking thing Mr Mcq11!
That trim vane is a thing of beauty, you sure you have never worked at Ducati or MV Augusta??

"I have therefore created a simple jig with brass rods to solder brass strips and tube sections together, creating central hinge parts with exactly the same length." Ohhh! I am so jealous When I accomplish some dinky repair or simple-simon scratch-built shape, I fairly burst with pride (or is it the corn chips and salsa? ). You must have been at this for a century to develop such resourcefulness and skill.

lmcq11 wrote: It provided some dimensional info on the locking mechanism.

I've stopped praising Louis' work as he receives so much - but that lock is exquisite!

Thank you Raminator, Barry, Herman, Herr Professor, Estnische and many others on previous posts for your comments and encouragements. When facing a purely scratch built project like this, every encouragement is really appreciated.

I have a few parts on order (new road wheels, M1919 cradle, paint...) that have not yet arrived. At this points, i am going around the vehicle and areas one at the time.

The rear of the Lynx. No ramp, just an hatch to access the engine that is at the rear, not in the front.
Side view of the vehicle without the skirts. I have decided to not install side skirts on my Lynx. I think it looks better without them, specially with the nice metal sprockets, idlers and tracks.
The shackles used are from AFV-Model designed for the M26, not the larger ones for the Leopards. Perfect fit here with home made brackets.
I could not put real bolts on these because the drive shafts are just behind them.
I have put on the bolts for the side skirts attachments. It is also possible to leave the holes empty. Even without skirts, i would personally put on the bolts on the real vehicle to prevent dirt from getting in the holes. In addition to reduce dust, the skirts are mainly used to improve the vehicle running on water, air being trapped inside.

As my Lynx will feature white paint and decals for a Canadian Lynx on the UN 'Club Med' mission on Cyprus in the 1970s or 1980s, side skirts won't be of much use.
Brass bolts and washers are Knupfer M0.8.
Rear of the vehicle with mud guards and other details seen on pictures.
From what i could see on one Lynx picture, the tow cable is attached with some large tie wraps to the tie down next to it. It will do that only after painting. The tow cable metal connectors are from AFV-Model, coming with the M26 shackles, a good deal.
Continuing on following post

Overview of the rear of the vehicle. Th rest of the tie downs will be put on later when I will setup a small assembly chain to create the ones for the rest of the vehicle, ensuring consistency in shape and size.
The tow hook is from an Ultimate Soldier 1/18 M-48 tank, a leftover from the M-48 build where i replaced it by a metal one from Dioramaparts. Sadly, Dioramaparts stopped shipping outside of Germany for a while, with no way to communicate with them. I could not order more at this time.
The Jerrycan holder is from Shapeways. Notice the weld lines on the mud guards.
The rear hatch is non functional, the bolts are there for the look.
The observer's position on the Lynx features a rear facing Browning M1919 converted to NATO 7.62mm, and used by the Canadians up to their replacement by the FN MAG. This is a Classy Hobby M1919 that is coming with the M5A1 Stuart tank, and converted with an brass ABER barrel for a much improved look. Sadly, i have to wait for the Shapeways cradle to mount it on the Lynx, probably a few weeks.
Overview of the rear of the M113 Lynx next to a regular M-113A2, with TOW missile launcher, built a couple of years ago.
Regards, Louis