Well, Painless, as to "preferably with swap out lenses for different strengths of magnification," a decade ago, I just got the highest strength lenses and got used to them quickly. Of course, the nuns told me that I'd go blind...."

https://www.dremeleurope.com/za/en/drem ... 352-ocs-p/ Note the mandrel has to be purchased separately for extra inconvenienceHerr Dr. Professor wrote:"dedicated Dremel plastic cutting disks": Tiger6: I didn't know there were specific plastic cutting disks. All along I have been using the ones for metal.
Don't have a picture handy, but when I did mine I used 2 brass hexagonal computer motherboard mounting pillars, screwed to the HL inner mantlet with suitable M3 screws, and the other (threaded) end jammed into blobs of miliput, which I then pushed the ATAK mantlet onto and wiggled around until it fit right. Sounds pretty cowboy, but it hasn't fallen off yetHERMAN BIX wrote:Plan to use the original H/L mantlet heavily dissected to bond into the Atak one to allow a modified attachment that is robust and looks right.
I have an H/L barrel left over from my Pantherdozer project that is a better option than the one it came with, just needs a sleeve & mount the servo links to be a winner![]()
An H/L 6.1s control unit will replace the 6.0 version it came with(and that will retrofit one of the others)
PainlessWolf wrote:Herman,
Some real progress there, my Friend! I have to do the ATAK zimmerit on a Porsche KT coming up soon so it is good to see that it works! Following along.
regards,
Painless
In this case with the different pattern & cross-cut spall lines, it is easier to replicate than using the hot screwdriver.Raminator wrote:Certainly easier than the hot screwdriver, right? The chips and edges look really authentic, I think it'll all turn out great when it's painted. Would you do another tank with the ATAK zimmerit after this?