RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thanks. I think I have that part. It’s in an unopened bag. I thought it was related to the “shed”. No reference in the instruction.


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Thanks for help. Apart from some smaller things I have the truck ready.

Two things remain though. What could these two be? I can’t see them on any page.




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mud flaps!
They crew in under the rear truck bed. there are nodules sticking down to push fit them on and then small black screw in the middle one

Renoir.
They are mudflaps but not for your Ural truck !!.
They are off the other B16 6x6 kit you can buy.
The Ural ones have a bend in the middle of them and there are 4 of them which you have probably fitted.
All i can think of is that as the B36 Ural and B16 6x6 are identicle chassis the spare 2 mud flaps for the B16 are carried over on the sprue in the moulding process...probably cheaper than trying to remove them from the original mould.
I have 2 spare too...but i also have a B16 6x6 so they may come in handy.
Regards
Sub.

Sub wrote: They are mudflaps but not for your Ural truck !!.

Good, then I think Im getting the hang of it. I could not see where to fit those parts.

BTW, the steering servo makes a noise when it is under stress. The servo isnt operating but emits a sound. When the wheels are dead straight it goes silent. But it is quite difficult to achieve. What could that be?

I had something similar on my Tiger, where the servo was doing barrel recoil. It would just buzz but the barrel stood still.
But it stopped doing it when I switched the servo directly to the control board. It came with own small board in the turret. Then it made this noise despite not moving at all. I figured then that the quality of the board was no good.

Hi.
Its because the servo is not centered correctly when at idle ie there is some load on the servo when the wheels are straight ahead and the servo is having to put an input in to keep it centered.
Make sure the steering trim tab on the controller is centered then uncouple the servo control arm switch everthing on and see where the servo arm goes if off center remove the screw holding the arm onto the servo and pull off the arm its on splines then reposition it centrally you may not get it perfect due to the spline position.
Refit the screw carefully and steering arm with th wheels straight ahead....so nothing is pulling the servo or trying to.
It should now not make a noise until you apply load from the controller.
Hope that makes sense.
Sub.

Thanks Sub. I think I understand. Will try it to the letter.


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Hi again. I have a 10 Amp ESC in the ural. It's the very popular kind that you can buy everywhere. The problem is that the reverse movement is jerky. At low throttle. I have to go half or full throttle for it to run good. The red light on the esc is also blinking when going in reverse. Seems it doesn't receive a stable signal. It's OK when driving forward. Smooth at low throttle position and no blinking. If I reverse the channel it's bad in reverse. Is that an ESC fault? I can believe they are shabby because the price is pretty low.


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Just resolved that weird issue. Turns out I had the ABS function activated on the transmitter for the ESC channel. Despite having an ESC with the brake (as well as one without) it was behaving oddly. When I switched it off completely it became right. Is that how it's supposed to act with the ABS on?


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Hi chaps.
Just hollowed out the rear light clusters on my Ural and fitted 1mm red leds and then fitted clear lenses so from the rear they appear transparent but then light up red when switched on.
Regards
Sub.