The new Taigen Metal Panzer IV (Pic heavy!!!)

[Arnie_DK]

I take it you cant see the pictures??
I see them fine in the post, but they wouldnt show on RCU.

Here's a direct link to my photobucket instead http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/Arnie ... /RC%20Tank

[sateng]

Hello everybody!

I am new to this forum so - My name is Jan I am from Germany and the owner of the new Taigen Panzer IV metal version.
I did the suspension mod which I found here - works great and thanks alot for posting!
For the drive shaft supports I have tried another solution to the Taigen hull.

Firstly you need a ballbearing with 8x14x4mm with a flange (mine was 0.6mm). Mine was from reely.
Then take off the sprockets and begin grinding the outer hull where the driveshaft comes out.
The ballbearing should fit tightly like seen in the Picture. It is held in place by pressure, the flange and some glue.
The idea was to have the bearing closer to the point of load and it is hidden.

Pic of the fitted ballbearing in my Google Photos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SIku7- ... sp=sharing

[jarndice]

Jan Hi, Welcome to the Forum, ,
I would be interested to hear if you intend fitting "Track Adjusters", and will you be lowering the rear roller on each side ?
I have a great interest in the Panzer 4 in 1/16 R/C but I have not found a metal hull that is anywhere close to satisfactory,
I would like to hear your opinion of the Taigen Metal Hull and is it worth the extra work to get it "Correct"?
Shaun.
(If anyone wants the 8mmx14mmx4mm Flanged Bearings that Jan is talking about E-Bay is selling them in packs of 5 for less than £7.)

[sateng]

Some days ago I had a chat with somebody at Taigen concerning the tracks and adjusters.
They told me the tracks shouldn't have sag over time like the other brands tanks do have.
But what I can say is, that after modding the suspension the tracks fit much better and are not that loose. The look is more original

I thought about dropping the rear roller. But if you have a closer look at the original tank you would also have to drop the idler wheel as it has to be closer to the rear bogey.
But dropping the idler wheel seems not possible to me. The mounting point for this wheel is part of the casted hull.
The higher rear roller has one advantage though. The track can't fall off the roller xD

I think these two mods I have done (suspension, ballbearings) is worth the work. These mods don't cost that much an make the tank even better.
But if you want the correct positioned rear roller and idler wheel and maybe track tensioners other products might be more suitable.

[Arnie_DK]

Hey Jan

I had considered your aproach to the bearings, but decided not to do it, as I didnt think I could make the installment presise enough. But seems like you nailed it

The Idler is too high, because the track ajustment isnt there. It it where, the idlers would be in the correct hight(actually low)

[Arnie_DK]

Asiatam hull with Idler ajustment


Taigen without Idler ajustment

[sateng]

Hey Jan

I had considered your aproach to the bearings, but decided not to do it, as I didnt think I could make the installment presise enough. But seems like you nailed it

The Idler is too high, because the track ajustment isnt there. It it where, the idlers would be in the correct hight(actually low)

Thanks Arnie
I test drive the tank again next days. But the bearings work quite fine.

Ive seen your Gallery with your Panzer IV. Which colours did you use to paint it?

Gesendet von meinem GT-I9295 mit Tapatalk

[Arnie_DK]

I used Vallejo Airbrush Paints. Dark yellow for undercoat

Here is another idler picture from a Jagdpanzer in Munster

[jarndice]

Finally after the non stop nagging of "Roy" and others who should know better I have bought a "Taigen Panzer 4 Metal Hull",
Even as I type these words I can hear the clattering of Lawyers word processors
The first thing to say in its favour is it is made of a Pin Vise friendly metal unlike the "Asiatam" metal hull,
The first thing to tackle was the Gearbox output shaft bearings,
"Sateng" suggested that as the covers were part of the hull and would need to be cut off to do the job that we usually do instead he cut back the outer lip of the cover and slid an 8mm x 14mm x 4mm Flanged bearing (E-BAY pack of 5 £6) down the output shaft and superglued it in place.
I measured the length of the shaft from where it emerges from the cover to its tip and then measured the depth of the inside of the front sprocket, I discovered that the Sprocket does not reach as far as the cover, With that in mind I sprayed PTFE lube down the shaft and placing a socket over the bearing tapped it almost home WITHOUT cutting the lip of the cover off, I smeared superglue on the lip of the cover and drove the Flanged bearing home,
I left the glue to cure and then refitted the sprocket and the (Very nice) cleated tracks, Everything was in alignment , The job was easier than the usual way we fit Gearbox output shaft Bearings

Next the Track Tensioners,
I bought the proper meaty Asiatam ones from http://www.rctank.de and at the same time went to E-BAY to order an extended M4 "Tap",
Because the useless lump of metal that blocks the fitting of Track Tensioners is so soft I simply "Dremmeled" it off and with the extended "Tap" put an M4 thread through the pre-existing hole, I screwed the Asiatam Track Tensioner into the threaded hole and job done, Very easy,
Rather than use the provided nuts and washers I wanted to fit a "Nyloc" but they are far too bulky so I shopped around on E-BAY and found some slim (Half Thickness)Self Locking, Lock Counter Nuts in M4 size Pack of 20 £2.59,
I wound one down the thread and followed up with a M4 Blind Rivet nut from Screw City also on E-BAY £3 for a pack of 20, (You will need a 6mm spanner to tighten it),It now looks like the prototype.
The Taigen Metal Hull comes with a Smoker and a very good Speaker the switches for the Smoker and the power are in a plastic switchplate in the floor, So that came out and the smoker will be devoid of a switch because I will plug the smoker into the control board where it will become a proportional smoker,

The power switch will go under the Radio Operators hatch,
I cut out a 3mm plasti-card patch and superglued it into the Floor then I wiped "MMD" Green Putty over the patch and when it was dry smoothed it flat with emery cloth,
I "Dremmelled" the inside floor of the hull with a grindstone to leave a completely flat interior which I will later cover with "Velcro" sheet which will hold all the interior fittings securely and yet be easily removable,

I replaced the single outlet Smoker with a twin outlet one as the replacement metal exhaust is a twin inlet pipe type which is going in to take the place of the Plastic single inlet one,
The bad side to changing the exhaust was it meant having to pin vise two new holes for it in the Metal backplate, But as I said earlier because the metal is so soft it is quite easy,
The good side is that the Exhaust mounting brackets are almost identical in size shape and location as the old plastic ones so a little fettling with a small file and the Metal Exhaust system fits,
The Exhaust support struts are too long but by filing back the locating tabs so you are in effect lengthening them they make a firm fit as well,
I still have the rear rollers to tackle but I have spare axle stubs to go in place which I have already pin vised to take threaded bolts to replace what is already in (The wrong)Place,
There is a lot of unnecessary work to do with the "Taigen Metal Hull" But because the Hull Metal is so soft it makes the work quite easy.
A job that is worth tackling and is certainly a lot less frustrating than the "Asiatam" Panzer 4 Metal Hull.
Shaun.

[43rdRecceReg]

Don't blame me for your folly, Shaun, I have my own to cope with; and it's quite a burden Thanks for the detailed, and illuminating, description of a solid day's tampering. Then, I had to smile when you came up with a really original way of describing a newly acquired tank hull's most significant virtue:
it's easier to drill than the Asiatam alloy one
Above all, if it keeps you busy and content- that's what really counts. What's more, if it acts as a counter to the PTSD (Post Tank Distress Syndrome) occasioned by the infamous Asiatam Pz IV allow hull kit, then all the better, old chap

Incidentally, Arnie, only the final three pics on this thread are visible to me. All I see- page after page- is the dread 'Photobucket' prohibition notice.