RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

OK, we have power.



The axle sprockets should come next, then the motors.

You know, this might turn out to be a good drive system for those big paintball tanks.

those are huge batteries, enjoying following along Gary

Got the motors, so we're getting closer. Still waiting for the axle sprockets. Time to do some electrical work, and do up a harness to connect the battery with on/off to the sabertooth 2x32. Also have to solder the XT60s to the new 6S batts, and attach a cotter pin to every single track pin. I might give the tracks a base coat of paint. Any recommendations for coloring cast aluminum track links?

I need thoughts on motor position. They weigh almost 7 pounds each, so I'm wondering if they should be more centrally located for weight distribution? Pros and cons? And I might end up using Schwinn bicycle chain. I'll have to buy the tool, but it's under $20 and then I'll never have to buy master links, I can split and attach chain links at will. But I won't be able to finalize the chain until I get the actual sprockets.

Oh yeah, any thoughts on adhesive to glue the tires to the roadwheels? So far I've had two recommendations, one, use two part 5 minute epoxy and, two, use rubber cement. I also have a bottle of that special super glue that's supposed to work well with rubber, and I've seen it recommended for the Abrams/Leo/Chally tracks where you have to attach the rubber pads yourself.

Anyway, here's the motors ...

> Any recommendations for coloring cast aluminum track links?

There's a couple of topics on this on the Armortek forum. You can view without being a member.

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... cks#p28191

Once you start running on dirt it will pick up natural weathering anyway and running on concrete or asphalt will take it back to bare metal whatever you use.

> so I'm wondering if they should be more centrally located for weight distribution? Pros and cons?

You really need to get the tank fully loaded before you can make that decision. This model only has one working leaf spring in each bogie, although it is pretty stiff. Too much weight at the front might make it nosedive under braking.

> Oh yeah, any thoughts on adhesive to glue the tires to the roadwheels?

Loctite 410 is the favourite on the Armortek forum, with a Jubilee clip (hose clamp) to make sure the tyre stays in position.

Adrian

Edit: Just put my Hetzer hull back together again and it has two springs per bogie, and they're damn stiff !! Hopefully have it running by the end of the week, then off to Ebay with it.

So they apply the glue and install the tire and then put a hose clamp around it until the glue cures?

I found a thread about adhesive at the armortek forum but they didn't mention the hose clamp or how they're using it. By the way, the best tip you gave here was using the armortek forum. Now that I know where to look I won't have to ask so many questions, so thank you for bringing that up.

I just ordered some Loctite 410.

This is the posting with the hose clamps:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... 333#p51773

Adrian.

One thing I would say about the motor position is that the longer the chain run, the more slap it will have as it beds in, so you'll be adjusting the tension more often, unless you improvise some form of tensioner.

The Vantex Sherman I have has a length of acetal bar pushed against the chain, to tension it, but this does also add to the background noise when it's running.
You can see it top right in the picture above. One end is fixed to the hull side, the other end is pressed against the chain with a cap head bolt.

Adrian.

So the sprockets have arrived, and I have to get different chain, but that's available locally so all I have to do is go pick some up. Probably on my way home Monday, after the mods have been done to the sprockets. Here's where she's at now



If I have to modify the glacis to clear the chain I might have to hang some spare track links on the front to hide it, but that shouldn't be a big deal.

Gary I do like the idea of leaving the front hull alone and have a slight adjustment in the holes to slightly move the drive sprockets back a few mm. That's how my tiny Panzer 38t is setup otherwise I'd have to modify my front plate too even further. I was more comfortable elongating the gearbox mounts than doing any damage to the front armor plate. Have fun

Carl

If I do have to modify it, I'll hide it under spare track links. I won't know for sure until I get the chain on Monday.