RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I've been watching this thread with great interest (and awe) so I'd like to ask if any thought has been given to mating this kit to the upcoming all metal PIV lower from Taigen? I know it's just been announced, but I also know RC Tankers don't waste any time so have you been considering how this will mate to the new lower and it's lift off top provisions? They've already said they'll fix the height of the return roller, and I think this terrific kit will give us more ammo to get them to fix the problem with the sprocket height. This kit is truly worthy of the best lower we can get, and I think the new all metal lower is gonna be just sensational with this kit.

What does Alwyn think?

Again, just great work. Anything that makes me want to build better tanks is just priceless in my book, and this definitely makes me want to up my game.

Hi Max, thanks for your interest in this. The unfortunate thing is that I have to stretch the lower hull in the front and the back for the upper to fit. The Nashorn unfortunately wasn't built on a standard panzer IV chassis but on a specialist chassis built for the Nashorn and Hummel. See the wiki
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nashorn
Basically it was extended to allow the engine to be moved to the centre of the tank so all the weight from the gun and engine was positioned at the tank's centre of balance.

Hope the background helps explain why the kit is done the way it is.

Best regards
Alwyn

Hi Carl, screwing the ammo cupboards down is definitely the best approach, I suggest you use the same approach when building the cupboard for the radios as it would be a great shame to mess up that magnificent paint job you are doing. You will have to fit the radio cupboard first due to the slope of the rear hull and the ammo cupboard should just slot in between it and the hull support.

I'm really enjoying watching you take the base kit and turn it into YOUR tank.

Very best regards
Alwyn

On the subject of research, you might find this useful, they have a selkection of camo patterns that were used in the various battle areas - there are some really wacky looking ones!
http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/n ... ashorn.php

Also this one which is where I got my camo scheme
http://www.achtungpanzer.com/panzerjage ... fz-164.htm

This is an interesting article in panzerworld
http://www.panzerworld.com/german-armor-camouflage

Hope this is useful
Alwyn

Very useful Mr Alwyn

AlwynTurner wrote:Hi Max, thanks for your interest in this. The unfortunate thing is that I have to stretch the lower hull in the front and the back for the upper to fit. The Nashorn unfortunately wasn't built on a standard panzer IV chassis but on a specialist chassis built for the Nashorn and Hummel. See the wiki
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nashorn
Basically it was extended to allow the engine to be moved to the centre of the tank so all the weight from the gun and engine was positioned at the tank's centre of balance.

Hope the background helps explain why the kit is done the way it is.

Best regards
Alwyn

Thank you very much, this explains things for me. I'm having a similar experience with an RC Mercedes 540K, three different wheelbases for that model and year! I agree it's better to stretch the plastic hull and have it be accurate. You've chosen a fantastic subject to model and some really good stuff you're doing. I think the functioning latch on the rear doors is my favorite detail. Then again, the travel lock is pretty cool, too ...

If I can go just a bit off topic, I see a bottle of mega steam on your bench, what flavor are you using and how do you like it?

Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

Max-U52 wrote:

AlwynTurner wrote:Hi Max, thanks for your interest in this. The unfortunate thing is that I have to stretch the lower hull in the front and the back for the upper to fit. The Nashorn unfortunately wasn't built on a standard panzer IV chassis but on a specialist chassis built for the Nashorn and Hummel. See the wiki
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nashorn
Basically it was extended to allow the engine to be moved to the centre of the tank so all the weight from the gun and engine was positioned at the tank's centre of balance.

Hope the background helps explain why the kit is done the way it is.

Best regards
Alwyn

Thank you very much, this explains things for me. I'm having a similar experience with an RC Mercedes 540K, three different wheelbases for that model and year! I agree it's better to stretch the plastic hull and have it be accurate. You've chosen a fantastic subject to model and some really good stuff you're doing. I think the functioning latch on the rear doors is my favorite detail. Then again, the travel lock is pretty cool, too ...

If I can go just a bit off topic, I see a bottle of mega steam on your bench, what flavor are you using and how do you like it?

Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

Hi Mr Max the mega steam is very nice stuff. I'm using the diesel engine scent and it does smell like a diesel truck engine!

I've been working a bit this afternoon on the nashorn. I've taken the tracks back off so I can prime the lower hull and wheels. The ammunition cabinets are now in primer inside and out.

The 88 rounds are in the process of being painted so they can rest in the cabinets.

I've been working on a radio setup in the corner of the fighting compartment and have attached a couple of photos of what I have been playing around with.

They are two separate resin pieces that came from Doc Larsson when I purchased his figures. I painted them and weathered them to look worn. I have yet to make the wiring for the radio headset but do have a headset (again from Doc) that will attach to the wiring and radio.

I have to add a piece of sheet plastic across the top to "shield" the radio tower and mount the ariel antenna onto in the corner

That looks brilliant Carl - Great job!!

I'm following along and loving your build.
Alwyn

AlwynTurner wrote:That looks brilliant Carl - Great job!!

I'm following along and loving your build.
Alwyn

Thank you Alwyn for the pictures and the encouragement to work on the details. I've painted the white dials and added copper wires and a headset that I will show once completed

Carl