RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

How did you test the sensor in the end? If M119 shows two states, open and triggered, then it is working. If M119 only shows open or triggered regardless of whether it is on the bed or in the air then it 'might' be faulty, or it could be a dodgy connection somewhere.

Hi Rob, I turned the printer round so I could see the sensor light and instead of it only being on when near the bed, it was permanently on. Checked the wiring/plug/wiggled everything but the light stayed on. Disengaged the bed levelling function and the printer printed (just in mid air) so the printers working, just the sensor that seems to be non-functional.

Alwyn

Depending on which type of sensor you have, they react in different ways, even having a build up of plastic on the nozzle will set it off. Have you detached it from the printer and tried it by lowering it against a surface. Again, depending on which sort it is, it may only work on metal, or may work on glass as well.

Here's a video on how to test them

Hi Rob, yes the sensor has a light which tells you when it activates. I held it in mid-air and the light stayed on, cleaned it, shook it, tapped it, no change. The video was really useful to understand how it works, thanks for that. The replacement should be here tomorrow.

Alwyn

Still no word from the printer supplier but I sourced a replacement proximity sensor, hooked it up, and hey presto I'm back in business.

Just shows how important it is to buy a printer like Reprap Prusa where there are plenty of spares suppliers around and the parts are generic.

It did give me a few scary moments though until I figured out where the problem was. I think I am going to lay in a stock of spare parts.

Alwyn

Hi Alwyn.
It looks like you've got a bit of Z woble there in the lower layers.
print yourself an anty woble mount.

Hi Gisalook, my issues with the printer have been a source of some irritation for some time, HOWEVER (and trying very hard not to invoke the demon Murphy) I have finally resolved a list of minor issues which together have blighted my printing, including

Loose vertical stabiliser rod on the z-axis (caused the wobbly print)
Hot end which was over a year old and had got progressively bunged up and seriously affected print quality (fixed with a new hot end)
Broken wires leading to the filament extruder caused by constant print head movement weakening the wires (I added a support strut to hold the wires in a fixed position)
Several z-position sensors failing due to heat (normal issue - just keep changing the z-sensor)

So at the moment printing is back to top quality and full speed ahead (touch wood). Having said that it will now probably break in the middle of a two hour print!

Alwyn

Alwyn im glad your sorted. What do you think of the extruded aluminium frame are they any good.
I'm thinking of building a printer from scratch and a extruded aluminium frame looks like the way to go.
Thank you
Adrian

Hi Gisalook, the extruded aluminium frame on my printer is rock solid and the printer is excellent. Before you go and build one from scratch, just tot up the cost of all the components, and then take a look at this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HICTOP-Filame ... SwtfhYo~ND
This is the latest upgraded model of my printer and at £270 it is £25 cheaper than mine when I bought it.

I very much doubt that you could get the components separately and build it for the same price, and it comes complete with everything (except filament) ready to assemble and just use.

Hope that was useful

Best regards
Alwyn

And here it is even cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HICTOP-24V-Al ... Sw241YZ3xs

£227 and free delivery - cheap as chips. I can pretty much guarantee that you can't buy the components for that price, especially after adding postage.

Alwyn