RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

BarryC wrote:

Jake79 wrote:I agree..WOW awesome you've certainly got some skill Barry

Thanks Jake, I've been modeling for over 55 years and my skills are on loan from God!

Barry

Well Mr Barry, Good ole God has placed his faith in you for good reason.................No pressure or anything, but the paint finish best be up to that of one M. Jiminez or it will not be worthy of the detail work eh
Like a couple of other builds in here going on, almost be a shame to cover that work with paint.

HERMAN BIX wrote:

BarryC wrote:

Jake79 wrote:I agree..WOW awesome you've certainly got some skill Barry

Thanks Jake, I've been modeling for over 55 years and my skills are on loan from God!

Barry

Well Mr Barry, Good ole God has placed his faith in you for good reason.................No pressure or anything, but the paint finish best be up to that of one M. Jiminez or it will not be worthy of the detail work eh
Like a couple of other builds in here going on, almost be a shame to cover that work with paint.

Thanks as always Herman, I count on you to keep me honest!

You are correct, the paint will make or break the finished model.

Barry

Earlier in the build you was asking about charging lipos in the tank?? I would not recommend that at all!! Lipo's should be charged in a special bag or box incase of fire/boom booms) the charging boxs or the bag can be gotten cheaply from places like hobby king.

I only use lipo's if I have a really small model I want to rc like my 1/72 Revell Predator motor yacht it has weight issues so could only run a tiny 800mAh 7.4v lipo! For models such as tanks and or my sub I run Nimh 7.2v 6800mah packs which are just as good without the added risk.

Bruce

Hi Bruce,

I have one of the charging bags and only charge the batteries in the bag.

Barry

Short update showing progress with the skirt mounted reactive armor tiles and front and rear fenders.













I will be using the plastic piece for the fenders to duplicate them out of .025" brass sheet. I do not believe that making them out for plastic they will with stand even a minor hit with the 15+ Lbs. of the tank’s weight and momentum!



I created the front most piece of the side skirt out of brass and will do the same for the rear most piece. The front was a requirement as it is shaped very differently than the standard skirt. By making the skirt pieces out of brass I will be able to solder the fenders to them and it should be sturdy enough to take a few bumps without failing, I hope.



TAFN
Thanks for looking in,
Barry

Barry considering your level of detail in this build I originally thought the full scale photos were your model until I saw the tank on your desk

c.rainford73 wrote:Barry considering your level of detail in this build I originally thought the full scale photos were your model until I saw the tank on your desk

Same here !

Thanks guys, again your words are too kind but serve to keep me focused. I try to match the photos of the "Real McCoy" though some compromise is required.

I would like to put the lower side skirt braces in that go between the skirts and the lower hull of the tank (I think they would be beneficial) but can not figure a way to make them work. Putting them in place is fairly straight forward but being able to remove the upper hull without a complete disassembly to swap out the battery is proving to be quite the conundrum!




Thanks again,
Barry

Great work....

I wonder what the lifespan of the track rubbers is on the real tank! they look thrashed.....

Bruce

HvyCgn9 wrote:Great work....

I wonder what the lifespan of the track rubbers is on the real tank! they look thrashed.....

Bruce

Thanks Bruce!

They do look quite worn in most photos, I suspect it depends on many factors but I am considering using a grinder and "chewing" at least some of mine up a little.

Barry