1/16 Elefant Ludwig/Asiatam

[xrad]

Thanks Aeromate! Saves time and money AND it is already drilled for flash AND there are at least three different available muzzle brakes (Impact, tamiya, and ebay aluminum one)

[bowlman]

Looking good xrad make this one your best so far .

Jimmy

[xrad]

Thanks Jimmy!

After some thought, I decided to drill and tap 18 2mm flat top screws to hold the hull together. Also some epoxy. The tabs are tight enough fit that front and rear panels are not loose, so screws on bottom plate only. Help stabilize some of the track torque...will also add some cross bracing so no twist.

Broke all my drill bits ..so have to get some more..

[xrad]

Having some issues..broke 3 drill bits (1/16) and my only 2mm tap..

so had to order some more...another delay on the project..

NOTE: the 2x6mm flat head screws form a super hull bond..VERY strong...I will place them in two directions 90 degrees at hull corners..

[xrad]

Hi everyone:

received some replacement parts for Elefant from Cristian. VERY nice in 3mm poly plastic instead of foam. Glue up super well with liquid testors.

Really top notch job on the metal hull and the new parts by Cristian and his father. However, still some scale issues. The rear lower bulkhead of upper hull angle incorrect. The citadel is too big . the gun surround hole is too big. I will have to extend the deck behind the engine cooling vents to make up for the new gap once citadel is resized. New Micro-mark table saw on the way for the trimming party.

Other than that, this is an exceptional kit and the metal hull is really a super work of art and fits the asiatam parts perfectly.

Price is great , too.

[xrad]

some pics:

3mm styrene is great stuff to work with. I just ordered some more from amazon. easy to saw/file/glue.

you can see the gap in engine cover when citadel positioned correctly. No big deal, easy to fill with styrene. Citadel will need rear end trimming.

Panzer III 7 periscope cupola. I bought some cheap 2 part fast drying casting resin. this and some playdough and I can make the cast ball for barrell and the commanders cupola...

WOW..BIG..about 20 in length, 9 width, 8 height..just about the same as KT..

[chris3]

hey xrad

how big is the gab between the casemat and the engine plate?
im going to update the kit step by step, but it is not easy some drawings show me other lenth and comparing some 1:35 models shows me diverent lenth too, try to find a way between all lol.
or i need to visit the aberdeen moseum.

cu christian

[xrad]

about 12mm..and the citadel is about 12mm too long when moved back to correct position. Front of citadel should line up with the back of the third wheel hub..

some updates. I have figured a fine way to mount the suspension. using the hole drilled by cristian, no mods there. I added a brass spacer measures 5.5mm length and fits the little stub well enough. then added a 7x13mm bearing. 7mm fits the little stub perfectly. this bearing is held between the 5.5mm brass spacer and a washer. washer held to stub with allen head bolt. although there is still some friction on the hull plate, the bearing really makes the unit smooth.

NOTE: the important concept here is that the bearing is NOT pinched between the washer and the brass spacer, but rather the little suspension 7mm stub protrudes about 1/2 mm beyond the bearing so that the washers can be locked down tightly to the little stub axle. Then the bearing mount is adjusted so that there is minimal free play, but everything turn nicely. And the washers act to keep the suspension close to the hull.

I use separate angle aluminum bearing mounts held in place with 3mm screws and lock nuts. Holes for 3mm screws just oversized enough to allow adjustment to line the bearing up correctly.

Also, the 5.5mm brass spacer AND the 7mm bearing are such close fits, the little stub axle DOES NOT spread apart while tightening the allen head screw. Important since for some unknown reason, asiatam decided to cast a cut down the middle of the litlle stub axle!!

ALSO: finished the main part of the hull assembly. 26 holes drilled, tapped, overdrilled, and countersunk...few hours of work there! Found a great tap ..Regal Cutting Tools brand ~ 9$ each but after breaking two dubro taps on the first 3 holes, I was able to finish the whole hull with one Regal tap! Nice!!

I used 2mm x 6mm screws for hull, and in some areas used slightly longer 2mm x 8mm screws. the 3mm thick aluminum is just the right thickness for these screws.

[xrad]

OK now it starts getting interesting:

I used some super casting resin, GREAT stuff..sets to sandable in 20 minutes! Casted the ball mount for the main gun...used a golf ball with playdough mold..worked out fine. will cast the res of the gun soon

Finished the major hull mods.
1) with front driver's plate at 10 degrees, needed to add about 4-5mm styrene to real hull plate.
2) gap behind cooling vents about 12-13mm. see pic..easy to trim
3) trimmed about 12-13mm off rear of citadel . It now sits at correct position with fron edge at the third wheel hub.
4) corrected fron and rear citadel plate angle from 15 degrees to 19...(supposed to be 20 but no one will ever know)
5) corrected roof by trimming 12-13mm off rear and remounting the rear tabs.
6) some of the weld tongue and groove joints will have to be remodelled to make scale.

I just love this kit! get the styrene upper bits because they are easy to work with. Liquid testors is like superglue with this material.

last pic is reference material. classic speilberger/doyle stuff with 'accurate' measurements . old issue ferdinand soft cover is EXCELLENT (museum ordinance edition) with all the angles and measurements from the aberdeen tank..tons of suspension and inside pics, too!.

[chris3]

hello
nice to see its going on and you still like the kit.
cu christian