Tongde Centurion Mk 5

[jarndice]

The only problem being the Tongde Turret does not have them

[zooma]

I wasn't too convinced about the pale paint colour that the Tongde Centurion arrived in, so I have given it a light dusting of Tamiya TS-5 Olive Drab using the original factory paint as a very good undercoat. This will be a Berlin based Centurion, so it is the correct colour.

It really was a quick "dusting-over" - I was using the paint on some parts of my HAYA Centurion KIT build, but the Tongde tank was parked quite close to the rattle can - so I decided to give it a blast while I was there!

The factory paint gave it some "pre-shading" (and I intend weathering it as well), so I am quite pleased with the result that was achieved in just a few minutes with only one can of paint and only the light bulbs were roughly masked off with some very small roughly torn-off pieces of masking tape!

I haven't removed the metal wheels or tracks yet, so some spray drift has found its way onto them too (!) - but it doesn't matter as they will be taken-off later and painted properly .......but probably not until after my current HAYA project is completed.

[zooma]

I forget to mention - just before re-painting (sort-of) the Tongde Centurion, I gave it another run this afternoon and I was able to program the TX to remove the violent chassis recoil jump.

This chassis jump was so strong before I adjusted it, that the cable reel was blown completely off of the tank the very first time the main gun was fired!

Eventually all of the chassis recoil action was dialled-out, so now the chassis does not jump backwards when the main gun is fired.

Once the chassis recoil was removed it highlighted the noisy clicking action of the BB firing gun. I have no desire to shoot BB's from this tank so I was pleased to see a setting on the transmitter that would turn this function off. Fortunately this was also easy to program out, so now when the main gun fires, only the sound of the main gun being shot can be heard.

........now I wonder if I can fit a muzzle flash to the main gun............and maybe barrel smoke too........?

[zooma]

Go for it,
You might be able to use parts of the sprue to build up a frame/holder to retain the spare tracks if there is not a proper attachment included.

I have found them!

The mounting brackets to hold the spare tracks onto the rear of the turret are included in the kit !

They are not mentioned or clearly shown on the various placement pictures, but close inspection of the pictures on pages 6 and 7 of the instruction booklet shows the spare links fitted to the rear of the turret - and the distinctive shapes of the bracket tops can be seen above them.

Comparing the bracket shapes with the 12" = 1ft scale photographs I have seen that they are the correct ones and they fit well enough into the two oblong shaped mounting holes that are moulded into the rear of the turret to accept them.

The Tamiya TS-5 Olive Drab body overspray can also be seen in this picture....along with the debris and dust from scraping the paint away and enlarging the mounting holes to fit the track mounting frames etc......

[zooma]

The next job will be to remove the metal wheels and tracks so that I can prime them and paint the wheels in Tamiya TS-5 Olive Drab.

I have not attempted to remove the body yet, but I guess I need to unscrew all of the ST Screws that are underneath the tank to lift it clear of the lower chassis?

This will allow better access to remove the metal wheels and tracks, but also expose the large suspension parts that are also alloy and these can be primed and painted at the same time.

[jarndice]

Take care when unscrewing the hull from the body,
Whenever I take my Tongde CENT apart one screw always comes out the other five are retained but I take care when moving the Tank just in case.

[zooma]

Take care when unscrewing the hull from the body,
Whenever I take my Tongde CENT apart one screw always comes out the other five are retained but I take care when moving the Tank just in case.

Will do - thanks for the tip!

Bob.

[zooma]

I need to make a metal axle to hold the cable drum onto the turret - it is not exactly a secure fit and can fall off too easily!

[tankme]

Use a small philips head screw. Drill the hole, thread it to the size of the screw, fit the screw, remove the screw, grind down the + off the top of the screw, and reinsert the screw. Without the + on the head you will have to use a need nose pliers or something similar to screw it in. Or you can drill a hole the screw fits into and use a nut on the other side if you have access being the screw. I wouldn't grind the head with the screw installed or it might melt the plastic.

That's what I'd do anyway.

[jarndice]

Use a small philips head screw. Drill the hole, thread it to the size of the screw, fit the screw, remove the screw, grind down the + off the top of the screw, and reinsert the screw. Without the + on the head you will have to use a need nose pliers or something similar to screw it in. Or you can drill a hole the screw fits into and use a nut on the other side if you have access being the screw. I wouldn't grind the head with the screw installed or it might melt the plastic.

That's what I'd do anyway.

I wonder if you could predrill and tap the thread and use a "Countersunk" screw then after you have fitted the cable drum you could fill the + with Green Putty