RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Wiring diagram from the previous vid:

Ok first go around with this thing.

I followed what John shared with the elevation.Worked right away.

I followed what Ian shared for the barrel recoil.The cannon does infact recoil BUT only on every second shot made on the transmitter.The sounds indicate the cannon shooting every time but it only cycles the recoil every 2 shots? Why and/or what could be done or am I doing something wrong?

Here's what the wiring looks like Mr.Rats guidance.



What do I do with the thicker black wire? Where do I attach it and how do I do so?

Mr Chef.
The thick black wire will go to to the battery neutral. Solder it, or better use a duel bullet connector.
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Meter rat wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 9:05 am Mr Chef.
The thick black wire will go to to the battery neutral. Solder it, or better use a duel bullet connector.
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Where on the board is the "battery neutral" located? I have those connectors and I can solder it I just don't know where Battery Neutral is located?

And thank you for responding Mr. Rat. I feel this is 90% done. Everything works as it should, barrel smoke, flash, sound, just the sync is off for recoil, with pushing the buttons and the cannon only recoiling every second shot.

Meter rat wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 9:05 am Mr Chef.
The thick black wire will go to to the battery neutral. Solder it, or better use a duel bullet connector.
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Connecting the black wire to "battery neutral" may just solve the recoil sync issue. I look forward to your response.

Hope this mod works out as I have several tanks with the Taigen recoil that need sorting.

Regards John

MrChef wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 4:07 pm
Mr Chef.
The thick black wire will go to to the battery neutral. Solder it, or better use a duel bullet connector.

Where on the board is the "battery neutral" located? I have those connectors and I can solder it I just don't know where Battery Neutral is located?

The black wire will connect to the main power feed, after the plug. As in the photograph.

Meter rat wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 7:23 pm Mr Chef.
The thick black wire will go to to the battery neutral. Solder it, or better use a duel bullet connector.


The black wire will connect to the main power feed, after the plug. As in the photograph.

YAYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!! IT FRIGGIN WORKS FLAWLESSLY!!!!!!!! Absolutely AWESOME!!!!!



The black wire as neutral was the KEY!!!

I shaved the wire sheath, trimmed and used the clamp for the black wire. attached and soldered it.Wrapped it in electrical tape, hooked it up and WOW it works perfectly!!!

Thank you Ian and John Soooo much!!! I'm so happy it works and Im so happy I could pull it off.

Well done all of you

Never heard of a battery neutral, but hey I only took a years worth of electronics training and fixed electronics for 4 years in the Army... Looks like you tied the wire into the negative side of the battery.

A "neutral" is typically a term that we use in the US for AC (alternating current) circuits and not DC circuits. In most European countries you guys use 220V AC circuits, but there is typically no neutral line in that as the neutral for our 110V circuits in the US is a return line. The neutral returns unused current to ground so in the electrical panel, the neutral is tied to ground, but it isn't "ground". There is an actual ground. I guess my point is, if you talk to someone in the US about a "neutral", we assume you are talking AC current.