RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Great looking tracks!

Hey Mr. Chef, I really like your armor plate texturing technics and appreciate the link for the "how to" youtube vid from night shift. I subscribed to his channel after seeing your post to get more tips. It's Always cool to see how other peeps get er done. Never too old to learn, I always say. Tracks are looking sweet
The weathering process is one of my favorite things to do as well...Keep up the nice work, Bravo
Happy Tanking

I would think that combination of muds on the tracks would take weeks to dry. Did you help them along with a hairdryer or (heavens forefend!) an oven?

Burger_Patrol1 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 12, 2023 8:24 pm Hey Mr. Chef, I really like your armor plate texturing technics and appreciate the link for the "how to" youtube vid from night shift. I subscribed to his channel after seeing your post to get more tips. It's Always cool to see how other peeps get er done. Never too old to learn, I always say. Tracks are looking sweet
The weathering process is one of my favorite things to do as well...Keep up the nice work, Bravo
Happy Tanking

Excellent Sir!

Yes I get a lot of ideas from others and there's so much for me to learn and try out. Martin Kovac (Night Shift) is just one of the modelers I follow. I enjoy his pace and explanations as well as his impressive work.

My first Tank was a Taigen and although I wasn't satisfied with it's paint job and finish I was intimidated to do anything about it simply because of the $$$ I chunked down on it. So I started searching and following model content contributors. I Enjoy Miguel Jimenez too but sometimes just watching him intimidates me with his speed and accuracy. But I like him a lot.

So I started to learn Weathering techniques to modify the stock RC tanks finishes. As I acquired more tanks I got more adventurous with my least expensive models. My KV-1 was my first from scratch paint job including hairspray chipping and of course obligatory weathering. This Jagdpanther project is my second effort using what I've learned to include camouflage painting, styrene work and fabbing. I don't have an airbrush yet so I do it with Tamiya Spray cans. Should prove to be interesting.

Thanks for the support.

Chef

Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Mon Mar 13, 2023 11:47 pm I would think that combination of muds on the tracks would take weeks to dry. Did you help them along with a hairdryer or (heavens forefend!) an oven?

Yes Enamel Effects take a bit of time to dry. That being said each paint layer I let dry overnight. So 2 days for the initial paint/effects then I'd find something else to tweak so another 2 days or so. These have been adjusted a bit since the first round above plus I polished the guide horns and cleaned up the roadwheel side. These are fully dried-





And good catch. I did use a hairdryer for the initial blackening before round 1 of paint. I let them dry naturally between paint layers. And It'd be very hard to use a hairdryer when I apply the pigments. Plus my wife would kill me if I blew the pigment dust all over that stuff is worse than stripper glitter...

The oven idea I postulated but not for drying the paint. I was thinking of heating the tracks to intensify the blackening agent/process. This time I didn't go that route but theres always another time.

I'm not done with this project yet and I'm planning 2 new ones already especially after seeing other peoples work and me wanting to improve more where I can.

1 day at a time but theres just so many tanks.

Chef

There are pigment fixers available:

AK Interactive 048
Ammo/Mig Jimenez AMIG3000
Abteilung 502 ABT P249
Green Stuff World 1754

https://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?t=3725
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missing ... 89124.html

For cleaning the grousers on tracks, I use the foot-and-concrete technique, goofy, but effective:

Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Tue Mar 14, 2023 9:16 pm There are pigment fixers available:


Ammo/Mig Jimenez AMIG3000

Bingo!


I don't use fixer for tracks and barely otherwise, because I find the other ways of "fixing" pigments like the links you provided to work more to my liking.

For tracks I usually do my painting steps with Enamels and as they dry I dust the tracks which fixes the pigment nicely. If the tank is for serious outdoor use I will apply a top coat of Matte clear coat. But so far the way I've done it the pigment dries and stays put well enough to not disturb our indoor flooring and irritate my pets or wife.

Pure loose dusting I find would be for static non handled models only.

Alcohol slurry I've used but don't prefer.

Using Odorless paint thinner/mineral spirits either as a slurry or dabbing afterwards if my preferred method.

But Mig Jimenez turned me onto a mix of thinned down enamel wash as another favorite method that works well when applying for effect on other parts of the tank- https://youtu.be/Lm5E3SPTmo8

Different methods of fixing weathering powders-
https://youtu.be/M6HB3NFAW0g

Your foot and concrete method I can absolutely appreciate...

Thank you for the links sir.

Chef

Ok waiting the weather out to paint I've been looking at some awesome builds here and other sites. I am thoroughly impressed with the details that other modelers are able to create. I also went down the rabbit hole of looking at more reference photos. Prime Portal is an amazing mass of information for armor modelers. I noticed members here had created spare track link mounts and after looking here- http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/jan_pe ... r_munster/

I thought I'd try to work something out myself. Being that I am limited and a newer modeler my attempt may be weak but I had some time and thought what the heck. Incomplete obviously but-







Progress not perfection yet. I've seen guys here with the cross locking pins and holding chains. I'm not too sure how I'd pull that off but I could plan for next time I guess.

Just do it !!
Try and get to a cheap jewelery shop, one that sells stuff to teenage girls, look for a necklace with really fine chain, or, a craft store that sells stuff for Beading(the old biddies that sit & put beads on wire )
Both have suitable small chains.
the pins can be made from snipped off & bent dress making pins. A pack of those is next to nothing.
I have 2 packs and use them all the time.
The pins can be slid through the chain links and the sharp point snipped off. Then bent to suit. Voila!

HERMAN BIX wrote: ↑Thu Mar 16, 2023 12:18 am Just do it !!
Try and get to a cheap jewelery shop, one that sells stuff to teenage girls, look for a necklace with really fine chain, or, a graft store that sells stuff for Beading(the old biddies that sit & put beads on wire )
Both have suitable small chains.
the pins can be made from snipped off & bend dress making pins. A pack of those is next to nothing.
I have 2 packs and use them all the time.
The pins can be slid through the chain links and the sharp point snipped off. Then bent to suit. Voila!

You've got my gears turning.