RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Worked the tank's tools/ equipment a bit this morning...

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Günther received a Summer camo jacket too and went on patrol with his Panther-F

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No panic fellows, Günther is not finished yet.
Had to stop, had to go to work.
Just took some quick shots with my cell phone

Yes, no probs. My fat finger typing on my phone aided by a bloody minded spell checker makes it difficult for even me to understand what I'm saying! At least if l reply to posts via the Taptalk message it offers an easy to load photo facility that even l can use!

See! Now I'm just showing off! This is what two REAL Panthers do on a hot afternoon

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I talked with Dom from RCTank.de about the difference in hight from the sprocket wheels between both panthers.
The wheel on the G looks more realistic in height compared to the F.
He told me, the lower hull, tracks, road wheels, the whole shebeng is exactly the same on both Panthers, only upper hull and turret are different.
Only difference is, my G has a plastic turret, while the F has a metal turret, which possibly pushes the tank a bit down up front.
There was an option of some high-tech spring set, with which each road wheel could be adjusted with its own spring.
But that was a bit out of my league right now

You don't need an upgraded spring to fix it.

If the chassis uses tortion bar suspension then its just a matter of unlocking the end of each bar, twisting it in the desired direction to increase or decrease the pre-load and then relocking.

If it uses a coil spring with pins that push into the hull side and swing arm then drill extra holes in the hull side so you can anchor the springs with less or more preload.

Come on lads, we're modellers!! We don't buy things we can make better ourselves!

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Forgot to mention, love that tool set. Tops!


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General Jumbo01 wrote:You don't need an upgraded spring to fix it.

If the chassis uses tortion bar suspension then its just a matter of unlocking the end of each bar, twisting it in the desired direction to increase or decrease the pre-load and then relocking.

If it uses a coil spring with pins that push into the hull side and swing arm then drill extra holes in the hull side so you can anchor the springs with less or more preload.

Come on lads, we're modellers!! We don't buy things we can make better ourselves!

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Both Panthers, and my Tiger 1, run Torsion bar suspensions.
I had no clue what you were talking about...twisting it in the desired direction.....
So I had to Google that, and there's a vid from a Tiger hull, in which it is shown in a way.
Must check it again and see if I can fix it that way, sounds easy.....

A tip to save your suspension from becoming weaker is when you are not using it always support the body of the Tank so that the wheels and tracks are not bearing the weight of the Tank.

Quite right too, but there's nothing like a bit of authentic sag!! When my KV sits on the ground it'll be just like the real thing At 6.2kg that shouldn't be long! With all 12 torsion bars adjusted it bounces along like a '67 Chevy Impala

To adjust all the Panther bars you may need to temporarily remove some internal components to get access. Always photograph the disassembly process so you can see how it goes back together - a tip l ignore regularly at my peril!

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