RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Right, well it's time to rid this model of the awful horizontal / parallel engine deck. It's one of the worst features of Taigen and HL Pz IV models. Unfortunately, Mr Tam's model also commits this hideous visual error. Tamiya have the ventilation louvres exactly right. You can also see the four hinged cover plates resting on the side fender (embedded actually). All very accurate.
This then (below), is the point on the upper hull where the engine slope begins. On the Tamiya model, it starts about 26mm above the fender, and ends at around 23.5mm (extent of the slope), by the rear armour plate. I used these rough dimensions to mark out the angles of the slopes to be cut on the Asiatam hull.

Here's the cosmetic surgical equipment I used on the Asiatam's erroneous angles. After removing the louvres and rear armour plate- very carefully,
I began to make the first cut in the hull. The Trumpeter razor saw is ideal for this.
Ditto with the other side: Then I used the Exacto Saw to straighten the cut out, and to mark a straight line (hypotenuse) for the triangular fillet I need to remove.

I'm aiming for a slice that roughly corresponds with that on the Tamiya Pz IV. This means that later, I shall have to slice roughly 2.5mm off the rear armour plate in oder for it to line up properly with the new slope on the deck and ventilators.
Here's the plastic fillet I'm about to remove from the right side. After a bit of sanding to even it up, I bonded it with ABS glue, as it seems to need that. Ordinary cement and no impact.
I did the same to the other side, and then began to remove the rearmost baffle from the louvres, as that's the only concession to accuracy this badly conceived kit will permit.

Your careful dissection skills are quite impressive It appears the patient is still alive and well. I will watching this very close as to steal some of your tricks to correct the rear deck angle.

Next, I bonded the engine compartment ventilator units back in place. For this I used Plastic Fusion two part epoxy. If they'd been harder to remove in the first place, I think I would have opted for cement again Plastic Fusion is the best epoxy I've encountered for use on models, though some guy giving a modelling master class on Youtube, also extols it's value. Maybe he gets a small gratuity from them..
Having given the bits time to settle in, I then began to fill the gaps I'd created with a mix of Milliput superfine, and Vallejo plastic putty. Milliput allows a little more pliable working time than Vj PP., but they're both good products.
Here's what the revised look amounts to: Here, I've placed the spare wheel box on the deck to demonstrate more clearly the slope I've created. I have to say, I'm quite pleased with the result. After all this effort, it's just as well. It definitely looks more like the real thing now..

43rd R&R,
Good afternoon. That is excellent work on correcting the rear deck slope on the kit! Neatly done. It will look great under paint!
regards,
Painless

PainlessWolf wrote:43rd R&R,
Good afternoon. That is excellent work on correcting the rear deck slope on the kit! Neatly done. It will look great under paint!
regards,
Painless

Many thanks for the positive support, Painless and Carl! I'm certainly not the first to do this; but, as the song goes: "I did it m-y y y yy...wayyyy"
Frankly, if you have a Panzer IV- no amount of paint and weathering cannot compensate for this ever more obvious defect. Once one has noticed it, it's practically impossible to miss it, and on other models too...
The remaining upturn at the front disappears with clamp assistance and slight tension, proving that when I have a viable attachment system in place (like the front adaptor plate and catch sold with the quick release mechanism on the Tiger),
The silhouette will pass muster..

Just a reminder to folks peeking through this thread, that if you click on the pics I post, they will enlarge automatically. ...and that's nothing to do with little blue pills

For anyone interested in buying this labour-of-hate kit (and to be fair, there are not many alternatives if you want a StuG IV.. ).. this is how the bits go together: and the gun assembly:

Yip, its a whole lot better
I did my Malta PzIV rear deck......and then wondered why
But it does look better.

Here is the latest Taigen version 2 metal PzIV I am working on.
Its louvres are right, but no slope on the deck

When building models it's sometimes hard to find good reference material- especially pics to support the build. The Golden Rule seems to be to get as many viable references as possible.
Here I found a fantastic set of walk around pics- 72 in all- showing practically every nut and bolt of the StuG IV. So, here's a big THANKS to Jacek Szafranski for taking the time and trouble to do it...wherever he may be
http://bigmodel1200.blogspot.co.uk/2012 ... round.html
Here's a sample of the walk around. Until I saw this picture, I'd never seen PZ IV with the plates/covers for the 4 intake louvres covered up. They are in this shot: