Page 4 of 4

Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:03 am
by Merlin707
Wow, just got round to re-reading my post.
Apologies for causing an issue post guys, not my intention.
But thank you for the update with regards to the 8 pin connector and muzzle flash.

Alpha in my opinion, I was thankful for your answer, I would rather know all sides of the coin so as to make a more informed decision.

Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:07 am
by cannedheat
old chap
you have done nothing wrong you asked a legit question ......and this is how it turns out, now a days there are a lot of folk on the forum who just love to stir sledge degrade and down right have a go , if you have the time the inkling to trawl the threads you can see who they are ........ the forum is about modelling getting help advise but that's when it starts to get personal because some think they are/know better than ? smart arses spring to mind. there are a lot of members we will use that term ,but where have all the old school gone ask a query and you had a response and no sledging ete gone I joined because I like r/c tanks we all get stuck we ask for help and all you get is a brawls .....back to basics chaps stop it you know who you are ........I am not tacking side but paul to me had passion tried to help as does alpha so get back to modelling lets have some builds wot wot .........

Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 9:11 am
by huntpe1
Is it me or do some just post to just post on every post even if they bring nothing to the party sad ?

Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 1:06 pm
by wibblywobbly
The other option to fitting a Taigen boad is to install either a Clark or IBU? That way you get realistic sound, industry standard IR compatibility and a whole host of additional features, including proportional accelaration, braking etc.

Although more expensive, the additional cost is the difference between the cost of the Taigen 'lectrics and an aftermarket system, which isn't a massive amount, but of course it depends on your budget.

The bonus is that your tank is instantly transformed from sounding like a toy tank, into something that sounds more like the real thing.

There are lots of videos on You Tube that will give you an idea of what is available and what they sound like.

RobG

Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 4:04 pm
by Saxondog
Sorry being late to the posting members, as much my fault as well for not being on top of the situation. Apologies to all concerned.


RobG A bit off subject, fantastic videos of your Motorcycling Adventures! Really enjoyed the ride mate. I so rarely get to ride these days.

Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 9:25 pm
by wibblywobbly
I didn't mean 'my' You Tube videos :think: , I meant You Tube in general. There are plenty of vids on You Tube of all of the boards available for RC tanks.

eg




Re: 2.4Ghz Upgrade

Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 7:48 pm
by ALPHA
Merlin707 wrote:Wow, just got round to re-reading my post.
Apologies for causing an issue post guys, not my intention.
But thank you for the update with regards to the 8 pin connector and muzzle flash.

Alpha in my opinion, I was thankful for your answer, I would rather know all sides of the coin so as to make a more informed decision.
No problem Merlin.... Personally ...I wasn't trying to say one brand was better or worse than the other.... Taigen works fine.... it was the connection to the upper hull which concerned me.... HL is a company who markets their products to a larger community ...they punch their tanks out fairly quick in comparison to other brands.... the Sherman has a more improved version of the 8 pin connector ...as HL added three more pins to facilitate the removal of the turret...older tanks all the wires have been double sometimes triple soldered to the same spot
Taigen doesn't do this... I actually feel their upper hull set up is much better than HL...as they have connector points for everything.. lights ...gun mech..gun rotation..and gun elevation are all separate

This is the reason for my concern ...the solution would be to trace the connections to make sure all points are soldered to the same actuators

Good Luck Merlin :thumbup:

ALPHA