RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

anyone got some sizes for some german square oil cans as they fitted to i think Opel Blitz trucks?
i need to draw some up and print some off for a project i working on
thanks

OK, sports fans, this is a new resin printer, the creality LD-001



After much frustration and the pulling of about 40% of my hair, I now have a file in the printer that will print two tires at once. I'm using Tiger6's design for the tire. I also plan to try tail lights like the ones I just put on my Q60.



These were done on the CR-10 FDM printer, so I think it will at least be interesting to get a side-by-side comparison between FDM and SLA. Filament vs UV, so to speak. The tail lights are also Tiger6's fine design. I'm thinking about mirrors. Mirrors of several types to cover a range of the new trucks. I need some help with design, though. Any takers? At the least you'll get some better mirrors from the resin printer. Those (as well as tail lights) I can send anywhere for the cost of a Christmas Card.

And driver's, guys. I need a file for a driver figure, even if it's headless and we get the head from verlinden. Naturally anyone that helps will get drivers, as will everybody else and his brother if they need 'em. You guys know me.

Very nice, Gary. That will keep you out of mischief over the Christmas period, but do heed Wayne's warning about the glass...

43rdRecceReg wrote:Very nice, Gary. That will keep you out of mischief over the Christmas period, but do heed Wayne's warning about the glass...

You know, Roy, I was thinking about Wayne's misadventure, and realizing I'm way too backwards to avoid such a calamity, I got a printer that doesn't have a glass print bed.

If the quality is as good as I hope I think I can put together a file to print 6 or 8 tail lights at once, and I have a feeling a few guys will want some. Which brings up a question - You all know I'm not in this to make any money, but would it be out of line to suggest a donation if I print something for you? I mean a bit extra beyond the cost of the print itself. Whatever a guy thinks is fair and wants to kick in to keep the R&D going in Detroit. I think there will be plenty of detail parts, like mirrors, that I can send worldwide for just a few bucks and you know I'll beat shapeways by at least 75% so am I wrong thinking it's a good thing for me to keep going down this road? And it's not like we're a huge market, I'm just talkin' 'bout the fine lads here at the forum. But resin definitely costs more than filament. A kilo of filament is about $35 for quality TPU, where a kilo of flexible resin is 80 bucks. Ouch. Hopefully we'll find out if it's worth it tomorrow. Same Bat Time, same Bat Channel.

And I still need drivers! An RC truck (in motion) with no driver just looks wrong!!

Max-U52 wrote:

43rdRecceReg wrote:Very nice, Gary. That will keep you out of mischief over the Christmas period, but do heed Wayne's warning about the glass...

You know, Roy, I was thinking about Wayne's misadventure, and realizing I'm way too backwards to avoid such a calamity, I got a printer that doesn't have a glass print bed.

If the quality is as good as I hope I think I can put together a file to print 6 or 8 tail lights at once, and I have a feeling a few guys will want some. Which brings up a question - You all know I'm not in this to make any money, but would it be out of line to suggest a donation if I print something for you? I mean a bit extra beyond the cost of the print itself. Whatever a guy thinks is fair and wants to kick in to keep the R&D going in Detroit. I think there will be plenty of detail parts, like mirrors, that I can send worldwide for just a few bucks and you know I'll beat shapeways by at least 75% so am I wrong thinking it's a good thing for me to keep going down this road? And it's not like we're a huge market, I'm just talkin' 'bout the fine lads here at the forum. But resin definitely costs more than filament. A kilo of filament is about $35 for quality TPU, where a kilo of flexible resin is 80 bucks. Ouch. Hopefully we'll find out if it's worth it tomorrow. Same Bat Time, same Bat Channel.

And I still need drivers! An RC truck (in motion) with no driver just looks wrong!!

Nothing wrong with that. I.dont think it out of line at all, it means you can help.use it to do new experimental work and help support others out there. It may even inspire we people to go look into the technology themselves

Looking forward to seeing the quality of the resin prints compared to the starndard form Gary, truck driver's and tyres will be an excellent shout bud and much needed as there is a real shortage for these I feel, Happy printingl

Cheers, Lee.

Gentlemen,
Speaking of resin: https://www.scientificamerican.com/arti ... r-is-here/
One step closer to those Star Trek replicators.
regards,
Painless

Hi,
my secondary 3D printer is finally running.

Its Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus.Arrived at least 10 days ago.That was very, very long completation and calibration.
Here is my experience with this printer:

When you assemble this delta with Anycubic assembly giude, you can use this printer to print some vases or some other decorations or similar parts.
You never reach the accuracy needed for the real prints with that.Delta printer need to be PERFECTLY assembled and calibrated.

So you need to start from the base.You definitely need some gauge block set to assemble this.
I have started with the upper triangle.Have to dismantle this upper base, plastic corners have some debris on the important surfaces.
Upper triangle need to be reassembled with perfect geometry.
Now is possible to adjust geometry of the base triangle with help of the reassembled upper triangle.
Place the reassembled upper triangle directly on the base (screws on the corners of the base must be non-tight) and add vertical aluminium profiles inside.
Now you have both triangles centered.Tight the screws on the base and remove vertical profiles.
You need gauge block 4mm or 4mm steel pin for the installation of the linear rails.Use this to perfectly allign this linear rail with the aluminium profile.
If you dont have gauge block set, you can use 4mm steel pin and glass.Place profile on the glass and allign space with the pin.
Now you can finnish the assembly in the usual way.

After that, i have changed firmware for the Marlin 1.1.9
Endstops need to be in the same distance on every axis.Use digital caliper to measure exactly the same distance +-0,02mm.Its very hard to measure with caliper, gauge blocks can help here.
Now microsteps for every axis need to be set in the same way like endstops.I dont have exact 80 steps/mm on any axis.Its something about 80.4mm.
At this point, i have designed some manual bed leveling system because i have more than 1mm derivation of the bed.
For me, this is absolutely big number even for the autoleveling, so i have decided to install some adjusters.
I have used this guide for the final bed calibration.
http://jheyman.github.io/blog/pages/Any ... 9-firmware
And this for the dimensional calibration.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1274733
Dimensional calibration need editation of the firmware values for the lenght of the diagonal rods.

That was long and (sometimes) painfull run.But its runing,finally .
I want to change extruder and hotend for the E3D, change motor drivers for the TMC2208 and Gates belts in the future, but for now i am satisfied.
Bowden tube was changed to "capricorn" immediately.
It tooks maybe 10 days to figure out all this things and reworks, but i think i want another one.
This is a cheap kit with a lot of disadvantages and lower quality of injected parts.Preassembled parts are not assembled properly.
But if you put a lot of care and patience in this, you can get absolutely amazing printer.Actually, you need more time than money .

Very first print (except the calibration prints) is still running, here are some pictures.
Its printing very simple parts right now, but they are good for the confirmation of the dimensional accuracy.
I need to play with the Simplify settings a little bit.This is a first shot with some stock settings for the S3D.
Fillamentum ASA, 60mm/s, 0,1mm layer, 0,3mm nozzle.

And sorry for my english .

I'm looking for a affordable 3D printer UK based anyone have any idea where i can get one

Ebay or amazon, look for the CR10s - the price difference to an Ender is not worth the loss of build size if you are serious about 3D printing in 1/16