RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Well, the Taigen Tiger came to visit.
First up, it would not work.
So today, I got my first ever close encounter with the inside of a Taigen 2.4 system.
Figured out a few things, cleaned a few things, and got it going.

Now with a fully functioning Tiger recoil and elevation system in the donor tank, I unplugged two cables that mine has & transferred them into the Tiger system.
Good news is I got the jagtiger elevation working, but on the downside its not set right so the barrel stays up too high.
Bad news is I cannot get the barrel system to operate. The microswitch fires fine, and operated the Tiger track recoil & sound etc.
But it would not work my Jagdtiger barrel into forward battery position by cycling the recoil motor.

I had such high hopes to make a big leap forward but now Im smashed on the rocks
There is one white wire on my unit that is not connected, plus there is a group of 3 cables coming out of the taigen receiver that mine does not have , so its kind of understandable that it wont work.
I guess I had an idea that a like-for like replacement Taigen part would work right off the bat, but nooooooooo.

Got me stuffed now.............no idea what to do to get it going, and thats on a Taigen set up. Still have to try to get it going on the new H/L unit once the cable & plug arrives from Haya.

Haven't had a tank beat me yet, but this ones looking like the ballbreaker................

Herman,
I went back and looked at the early StuG build where I used one of these units. The white wire along with a blue one went to the gun's On\Off switch.
regards,
Painless

Thanks Mr Painless, I just checked & my new replacement unit in the JT does not have a blue wire off it.
The Tiger test tank has a blue wire that runs out of the MFU from an 8 pin plug that has been split into a 3 and a 5 pin.
The 3 pin in this case runs into the turret.
I cant see where it goes without really getting the turret apart & Im sure-as-shit not doing that on someone elses tank

Electronics....................damn them to hell.

I mucked about for a while to get this working in my T-34/76, but couldn't manage to squeeze the unit into the little turret. From what I remember though, the red wire that comes off the recoil microswitch (the one with the spade lug on it) needs to go to the negative terminal of the battery. The white wire needs to be soldered to the corresponding terminal on the elevation motor (they share a common positive).

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I'll have a look around and see if I can find the wiring diagrams I drew up, but since they were to get it to work on an IBU2 your mileage may vary.

All I have is this...........................

Red & white off the recoil micro switch- 2 pin

Black/black/red off the top of the unit I assume is elevation & power in.

The red cable with the heat shrink which seems to be for the battery back up flash unit.

The single white wire that appears to run from one tab of the actual green backed recoil motor.

Ive got a lot to find out before this works.

Sorry Herman, couldn't find my wiring diagram. It may have been tidied into the wheelie bin sometime in the last six months.

The red wire with the heatshrink has a little crimp connector inside it, that needs to go to the negative terminal of the battery. The white wire on the on the green motor needs to be soldered to the same terminal on the white motor. The three-pin plug should then go into your upper hull distribution board (the little PCB that has the 8-pin, two 3-pin and one 2-pin connector), but you may need to reconfigure the pins if the new-generation HL electronics have changed the configuration of the 8-pin plug.

That will give you a common positive between both motors, a switched negative each through the 3-pin, and a separate switched negative on the recoil motor that will stop it when it returns to the battery position. That should be everything you need.

As luck would have it I spent a fun afternoon and evening of my recent holidays trying to figure out the wiring on one of these things for my Jumbo. I had it sitting in the parts box for a while and a couple of the wires had detached themselves which raised a few obvious questions. After some googling and a lot of trial and error I was so proud of myself I even took a happy snap:
Raminator is spot on with his description and I wish I had asked him a couple of days ago. On mine the green motor is recoil and the white one looks after the elevation. The recoil micro switch plugs into the high voltage flash unit but depending on the electronics you're using you might not need it. It is supposed to sync the flash with the recoil but it wasn't attached on mine and the IBU3 apparently doesn't need it anyway. I would also recommend re soldering the wires, if it's anything like mine you'll end up doing them again anyway.

The black, black, red plug goes into the standard heng long turret connector like this:
It's worth noting my plug was back to front which caused me no end of frustration and a few words I picked up in shearing sheds until I figured it out.

The other thing worth doing on these things is to trim back the circular tab on the gear that causes the gun to snap back. Out of the box the recoil is delayed by a second or two so if you cut back the tab (not too much though ) it will release earlier and sync up with the sound better. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.

Really, really appreciate the help with explaining the electronics fellas.
I will wait until the stuff arrives from Haya, and then I can try to get it going with the new H/L set.
Im a bit happy in a way that now I know what I dont know, its obvious why its not working, rather than something sinister.
Hey, the gear aint connected right- so it will not work.

I have a bit of gining around to do to get the elevation height right, while I at least have the Tiger as an operating system so that will take priority at the moment.

Thanks again to all for the info & encouragement.

Raminator wrote:Sorry Herman, couldn't find my wiring diagram. It may have been tidied into the wheelie bin sometime in the last six months.

The red wire with the heatshrink has a little crimp connector inside it, that needs to go to the negative terminal of the battery. The white wire on the on the green motor needs to be soldered to the same terminal on the white motor. The three-pin plug should then go into your upper hull distribution board (the little PCB that has the 8-pin, two 3-pin and one 2-pin connector), but you may need to reconfigure the pins if the new-generation HL electronics have changed the configuration of the 8-pin plug.

That will give you a common positive between both motors, a switched negative each through the 3-pin, and a separate switched negative on the recoil motor that will stop it when it returns to the battery position. That should be everything you need.

RIGHTO, I just now managed to cycle the recoil into full forward battery

Thanks to Mr Raminator and a couple of others advice and guidance, it works off the donor Tiger electronics.
Knowing the red wire with heat shrink is a negative(not a positive for christ sake ?) and where to put the stray white wire , it works. Real simple, IF you know.

Once my cable & plug arrives from HAYA UK(its on the way thanks Andrew) it should be a straight plug in.
I will shoot a wire off the negative on the on/off switch in the Jagdtiger and plug the 3 pin into the corresponding socket on my new plug unit out of the T-90 and Im away ............and with little decorum I shall say "bout ^%%#$!@@N time "

Good morning, Herman,
I knew you would get it sorted. ;o) This build is a testament to your common sense approach to redoing big scale Armor.
regards,
Painless