RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Zooma. I have really enjoyed this build, and the way you have developed new skills.

Meter rat wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2024 11:01 am I don’t know whether to be flattered, or offended.

Flattered for sure. You like to speak of you ineptness yet you turn out some outstanding work on a regular basis.

Ecam wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2024 2:33 pm

Meter rat wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2024 11:01 am I don’t know whether to be flattered, or offended.

Flattered for sure. You like to speak of you ineptness yet you turn out some outstanding work on a regular basis.

I am very self deprecating, tis true. My work is poor in comparison to your models.

Hi jarndice, following your helpful contribution regarding the Centurion pick axe handles, I have changed the pick axe handle ends to have a metallic end "look" over the swollen area that would be drifted into the axe head.

I can take a look at the actual area of the shaft that was clad in steel when I can find some pictures that show it, but my guess is that it will be the section that I have re-coloured ?

Since I had a small paint brush in my hand, I decided to re-colour the tow top "binding cleats" to a dark green colour. I still have no idea what colour these should really be, but the green looks more likely than the rust colour that my previous pictures show .....but I will keep looking for pictures that clarify this as it is pure guesswork on my part.

Thanks for the info that you have provided since I started this build - you were there in Berlin and saw these tanks in real life at the time so your contributions really are appreciated.

Bob.

Although I took these last two pictures in darker conditions, its surprising how phone pictures help to identify poor work. I can now see the tow rope detailing at the back of the tank looks a bit rough - I will try to refine and improve this the next time I get a paint brush out.

I see what you mean by the "rough" tow cables at the rear of the Centurion. Egad, that is such a minor bit compared to the mastery of it all. Yes, photos show a lot; indeed, they are merciless. I use seven-power goggles made for modelers so I can see errors right away: that way I can feel all the more incompetent.

Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2024 9:26 pm I see what you mean by the "rough" tow cables at the rear of the Centurion. Egad, that is such a minor bit compared to the mastery of it all. Yes, photos show a lot; indeed, they are merciless. I use seven-power goggles made for modelers so I can see errors right away: that way I can feel all the more incompetent.

I have tidied them up a bit now Prof........as far as my arthritic and shaking hands will allow - good job it is only stand-off scale!

Seven power goggles would magnify my shaking hands - I have enough problems seeing the movement with normal old age vision!

I always try to find something to rest my hand on when it has a small paintbrush in its clutches - anything will do (depending on the height of the part I am hoping to aim the paint at) and it does help to stabilise the shakes quite a bit.

When the spray masks and decals arrive I will blend them in to the paintwork and finish the weathering.

I need to find a way of reducing the gap (to zero) where the glacis plate fits the lower hull. There is always a gap here on the HAYA Centurions (my RTR HAYA Cent is exactly the same) that looks ugly, so I want to find a way of removing it.

Pushing down on the glacis plate closes the gap - so maybe it is being "held-off" and I can cut the top off of the large locating "tongue" to allow the deck to "sit" down more?

"I always try to find something to rest my hand on when it has a small paintbrush in its clutches": yes, I rest the piece, too. I usually don't shake too much, but my (lack of) eyesight makes up for that.

"I need to find a way of reducing the gap (to zero) where the glacis plate fits the lower hull." I am finding this to be a characteristic of RTR TongDe tanks, and I may have experienced the same with Andrew Haya's Centurion. On some RTR tank, I recall a heavy metal plate affixed to a lower hull into which plate the glacis was to slide. I think I removed and flattened the plate a bit by pressing it slowly, a smidge at a time, in a big bench vise.

I keep looking at the tiny bared "metal" spots on your Centurion. They seem so realistic to me. I imagine a coat of "steel" paint under the base coat, with the based coat just rubbed lightly on the edges of castings and parts.

Hi Prof,

The hull mounting for the HAYA Centurion is a moulded tongue, so I would not be able to bend it downwards, but I am hoping to be able to file some material off of its length to allow the glacis plate to sit down onto the hull better.

.........failing that - I may think about your idea and replace the moulded plastic tongue with one made from alloy or brass sheet.

Bob.

zooma wrote: ↑Wed Jan 01, 2025 4:09 pm The hull mounting for the HAYA Centurion is a moulded tongue, so I would not be able to bend it downwards, but I am hoping to be able to file some material off of its length to allow the glacis plate to sit down onto the hull better.

I did a 3d printed option that is of a slightly tigher fit with the intent to enforce the side as well. See https://cults3d.com/:2317126

Your paint work is really good. I simply love all the weathering effects and details.