M1A1HA, 9/18/23 update. Delay of Game, two week penalty!

[BarryC]

OOPS all most forgot...well I actually did.

I mounted the turret power switch and turret power AA battery pack.

Eliminated these pictures as both the switch and battery pack have been redesigned out!

Thanks for looking in!
Barry

[MichaelC]

Hey Barry,

Just checking in to your build, looking lovely and meticulous as always. I was going to comment on the fact that the Taigen flash unit comes with a 5 pin connector but really only needs 3 pin, the other 2 is use to trigger the hull recoil in the RX-18/Taigen electronic set-up, so in theory you don't need to pass 5 connections thru the 12 pin slip ring. It wasn't really a big deal and I wasn't going to say anything, but then I saw your 6V power pack connection just for the recoil and elevation servo, I assumme it is due to the fact that you don't have enough slip ring connections to power them from the board. So instead of wasting the 2 connections from the Taigen flash, you can use that for the power (+/-) for the two servos and eliminates the power pack requirement for the turret servos.

Don't know if this make sense. I think I skipped the whole discussion about electronics and might have been covered already.

MichaelC.

[BarryC]

Hey Barry,

Just checking in to your build, looking lovely and meticulous as always. I was going to comment on the fact that the Taigen flash unit comes with a 5 pin connector but really only needs 3 pin, the other 2 is use to trigger the hull recoil in the RX-18/Taigen electronic set-up, so in theory you don't need to pass 5 connections thru the 12 pin slip ring. It wasn't really a big deal and I wasn't going to say anything, but then I saw your 6V power pack connection just for the recoil and elevation servo, I assumme it is due to the fact that you don't have enough slip ring connections to power them from the board. So instead of wasting the 2 connections from the Taigen flash, you can use that for the power (+/-) for the two servos and eliminates the power pack requirement for the turret servos.

Don't know if this make sense. I think I skipped the whole discussion about electronics and might have been covered already.

MichaelC.

Hi Michael,

That is good and bad news...bad only because I have already mounted the battery pack. Good as I can now eliminate the added weight in the turret though it does nicely balance out the servos and main gun! I am not sure that the ElMod does not use these two pins to trigger the flash; which two pins are not needed?

Barry

[MichaelC]

Barry,

You can see in the high intensity flash that the two pins out are used for timing purposes on the trigger of the recoil from the stock electronics. There is no reason why Elmod would need it other than compatibility with stock Heng Long recoil tank. In Clark boards they are use for other functions (Board signal indicator) and in IBU it is actually switched over to a 3 pin plug froma 5 pin plug. If you look at the box art of the hi intensity flash you can see it is the 2 pin out that is not needed:

FlashUnit.jpg (94.41 KiB) Viewed 2354 times

I just think that with the extra battery pack now you have a whole other sub system to worry about all the time.

MichaelC.

[BarryC]

Michael,

I agree that the added battery circuit adds another potential failure point. Rob "wibblywobbly" confirmed that the ElMod does not need the two pin connector.

However this still leaves me only a single power line (two wires) to power both Elv and Recoil servos. I will have to retain the battery pack unless I can confirm that the ElMod can power both servos from only one of the servo power outputs.

I could however power one of them from the ElMod and the other from the battery pack. Perhaps once I install the elevation gyro it would be best to power that circuit from the battery pack and the Recoil servo from the ElMod.

Thanks again,
Barry

[MichaelC]

Sounds good. It was really just a thought. Its not so much the failure but the fact that there is an extra on/off could be bothersome. I am pretty sure that one power line will power both servos. Also don't forget that it is not likely you will be elevating and firing/recoiling at the same time.

Everything looks great though Barry. You really get your money's worth out of this one build. I wish I have the skills and the patience. Instead I can constantly looking for a new build because I don't spend enough time on the ones I have.

Michael.

[BarryC]

Sounds good. It was really just a thought. Its not so much the failure but the fact that there is an extra on/off could be bothersome. I am pretty sure that one power line will power both servos. Also don't forget that it is not likely you will be elevating and firing/recoiling at the same time.

Everything looks great though Barry. You really get your money's worth out of this one build. I wish I have the skills and the patience. Instead I can constantly looking for a new build because I don't spend enough time on the ones I have.

Michael.

I had not considered the fact that it would be VERY unlikely that I would be operating both servos at the same time, good analysis of the operation!

When I decided to take the "dive" into the RC Tank world I was driven by my desire to have a large scale Abrams. I was into Model Railroading for many years and what I enjoyed most was that I could indulge my scale modeling side as well as being able to "play" if you will. The RC Tank hobby does both as well and so far I am really enjoying all the varied aspects of the build. My day job is in the production world of Corporate Aircraft and I work very closely with engineers resolving problems both electrical, electronic, mechanical and structural and so far the build is offering all without it being aircraft.

I have been building models for nearly 55 years and my first love is model aircraft but armor and ships both run a close second! My model collection stands at about 400 un-started kits and now RC Tanks. I am looking forward to finishing the M1 and seeing it in operation. I too am a little A.D.D. when it comes to staying the course and finishing one before starting another. By the way I have already purchased a Tamiya Leopard 1A4, M26 and today I received the JGSDF Type 10 and I want a M60 and thinking seriously about scratch building one using the Tamiya M26 chassis.

I really appreciate your kind words and invaluable assistance!

Barry

[BarryC]

Hi folks,

While trying to devise a scheme to use magnets to secure the two turret halves together I had one of those "Ah S#!T" moments! It dawned on me that I should have mounted everything onto the lower turret half as opposed to the upper.

With all the TUSK I mods mounted to the top of the turret it needs to be removable without having to place it upside down resting on all the added details especially the copula armor and loader's gun shield. Though all these details will be removable the more they are handled the greater the risk of damage. If the entire upper turret piece is removable without placing it upside down I believe it would be MUCH better.

So now I will move the Main Gun and Elevation servo and remount onto the lower turret half. Minor setback but IMO the added work now will payoff later on.

Cheers,
Barry

[HERMAN BIX]

You could just sit the turret in a round food container so the gun assembly hangs down free and the turret sits on the container rim

[BarryC]

Herman,

I had considered that but with everything mounted onto the lower turret half I will also be able to functionally test and make adjustments to the mechanics and servos while powered up. I am really not sure why I did not consider the down side of having everything in the upper half....rookie mistake! Moving everything will not be too bad just a little aggravating and besides it is good practice.. ..that is what I am telling myself!

Cheers,
barry