Metal Origins SdKfz 234/2 Puma

[AlwynTurner]

That's fantastic news Richard, I thought a few tweaks would bring a result!

Sounds like just a couple of wiring niggles and Bob's your Uncle! Can't wait to see the final vids of it all working.

Alwyn

[silversurfer1947]

The lights I'm not too bothered about. The loss of flash is a pain. It looks like the problem lies within the turret. Rather than dismantle it all, I am going to attempt to put it all together to give it a first run at the BAD meeting on Sunday.

Still a little apprehensive as to whether the bouncing wheels will still mainfest themselves.

[AlwynTurner]

I'll keep fingers crossed for the outing and hopefully some kind person will video it.

Alwyn

[AlwynTurner]

Hi Richard with a few electrical items not working could it be a supply pair of wires with switched polarity?
Alwyn

[silversurfer1947]

It is distinctly possible. Colour coding seems to be random! I tried to put a multimeter on the flash LED wires and could not get a reading. I tested the output from the board and that was fine. It looks as though there wiring may have gone somewhere that is invisible. I bought the barrel with the LED fitted from Tank-modellbau. I am not sure whether it's possible to replace the flash. When I sit down to assemble it I will try again.

With the front lights, I am not sure that I am switching them on correctly on the Tx. I need to test the lights separately. Any suggestions as to how to test an LED welcome.

[wibblywobbly]

Just been reading through your trials and tribulations. There are only two ways that the muzzle flash/lights wouldn't work, wrong polarity or broken circuit.

If you are getting a voltage at the board then this confirms it.

Testing an led is fairly simple. Insert the plug for the flash or lights, and push the prongs of the led into the top of the plug.
If you have a metal barrel, did Xion put heatshrink on the led solder joints? If they didn't or it has slipped exposing the prongs, they can easily short out.

An internal break in the wiring is always a possibility, or a bad solder joint on the led/wiring.

[silversurfer1947]

I am going to forget about the problems with the LEDs for the moment. I've just spent a considerable time trying to get the top to sit down on the lower hull. You would think that having the extra space from not using the full size elevation servo, it would be a doddle. I think the original version must have been related to the TARDIS - bigger on the inside that the outside. A lot of thinking time required. Initial thoughts are that I shall have to shorten a lot of the wiring. Unless inspiration strikes, I shall take it along tomorrow for second and third opinions.

[silversurfer1947]

I had a think and have gone back for another look. I moved some wires around to discover that not helping the situation was the turret drive. The motor supplied was supposed to be fitted with a cover, which I omitted as it served little purpose. What I have now found is that two of the spigots to which the cover should have been screwed, actually fouled the front cross member. They were swiftly removed with a razor saw. The top still won't go down, but it's getting loser. Before attacking the wiring, I shall seek a second opinion tomorrow. A bit like measuring twice before cutting once.

[wibblywobbly]

...and Murphy's law says that in two days time you will discover why those two spigots were where they were...

[silversurfer1947]

I've not thrown them away!