RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

No, two of the corners really did lift up but just a little bit and it doesn't seem to have created any problem.

Odd that


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Hi Gary, what temperature are you running your print head at and are you heating the print bed? Once the first layer is down then it shouldn't lift. For small pr int items I also print a brim to prevent any chance of lifting.

Alwyn

I'm pretty sure Wayne had those settings preset in the file and the nozzle was at 210 and the bed at 55. The videos on this particular printer say you should run your nozzle at 220 and your bed at 60 but Wayne advised 210 and 55 and since he knows so much more about this than I do I just do what he tells me.

For PLA I print at 200c with 48c print bed. Works for me. The curling is caused by contraction, the hotter the filament the greater the drop back to room temperature, so the greater the expansion/contraction.

If its ABS the temp is higher, but PLA doesn't need it, it usually says the temp on the product spec/box/advert etc etc.

I'm currently running mine at 200 for the nozzle and 50 for the bed, with no lifting, but it can vary depending on the filament. I'm also using pritt stick for adhesion. It may be you haven't got the bed height quite right. I use the sheet of paper method for setting height, the paper should move but with resistance.

Alwyn

To set the nozzle height on my Anet A8, I slide the glass between the nozzle & the Ali print bed, when it just stops clicking I know it’s bob on.
There is so much give designed into the Z axis and the bed that I couldn’t get repeatable results with paper.
I hear you can’t use this method on the CR10 as there isn’t enough clearance around the table to slide the glass.
Cheers
Wayne


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I use the paper test every time. Works like a charm. Auto home and then disable the steppers using the LCD, Manually push the head and bed around. Just slacken off the bed from the nozzle when you do each corner, slide the sheet under the nozzle, raise the bed back up while sliding the paper around, and as soon as you feel resistance stop adjusting. Do it on each corner and job done.

wibblywobbly wrote:I use the paper test every time. Works like a charm. Auto home and then disable the steppers using the LCD, Manually push the head and bed around. Just slacken off the bed from the nozzle when you do each corner, slide the sheet under the nozzle, raise the bed back up while sliding the paper around, and as soon as you feel resistance stop adjusting. Do it on each corner and job done.

Did basically that, but used feelers. At .003 it doesn't go, .0025 it does. Just printed a small crate, and I've now modified it to fit the truck and we'll see how I did. I set bed temp at 50 and nozzle for 200. I'll print it and we'll see what happens.

Wayne, if you're still up skype me.

I might have the nozzle just a tad close. I might try backing off .001 and see what happens. The stick (adhesion) on the small crate is great.

Ok its early days, what you will develop over time is the magical 3D printers touch. This will endow you with the ability to look at the way the first layer prints and see whether it is the correct thickness, The nozzle height doesn't have to be micron perfect, in fact, if you move the nozzle to the centre of the bed I can pretty much guarantee that the height will be different to the corners. If its way out, you can try turning the glass over.

If the nozzle is too low you will find that thin prints are so thin that horizontal base layer is almost non-existent. You can check accuracy by downloading a test cube from Thingiverse and measuring it. If the height is too low/high then you know that the bed levelling is out.

The first layer should be a visible line of filament, just slightly squished onto the bed.