RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

MrChef wrote:I do love dirty girls

They are the most fun!

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John Glover wrote:Wow, very impressive work. Could you print me the perfect woman. No speaker required.

Thank very much!! Hahahaha I dont think the printer is that good but if it could it most certianly would not have a speaker hahahaha

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Shameless86 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 09, 2026 4:35 am Im happy with it so far! The next one is already printed entirely in PETG (with nylon hooben tracks again). Side by side comparison. Petg seems more brittle immediately. The PLA plus wont stand up to armor texture or even tamiya putty. So that put me off right away. I got my printer at the end of December so Im just figuring things out. This is all experimental. I tried new weathering techniques as well. If it all goes south ill get the gear boxes and computers back. Less than 2 rolls of filament/a few hours small gamble for the experience gained. Only time will tell. Im curious about how it'll act in the sun on a day of summer tanking now that you mention it.I appreciate the tips. I dont have a resin printer for the detail parts yet perhaps down the line.

Im a newbie with plenty of questions!! Does ABS put off alot of fumes? How is it compared to nylon in that aspect? Which if those 2 do you think would give the better details? You think ABS for details and nylon for something like tracks? Again, I appreciate the advice!!

With PETG, I would predrill holes before you put screws in it. It actually holds threads better than ABS or PLA and if you can actually thread the hole first all the better. PETG is brittle in some respects, but stronger in others. It also doesn't bio-degrade like PLA. PETG can also be glued with the right glue as well as ABS and I don't mean superglue. Solvent based glues will be much more permanent than CA glue. ABS is decent at detail parts and definitely better at them than PETG. ABS fumes can be nasty. I personally print in my garage so ABS doesn't bother me at all. When I printed ABS in the house it definitely gave me a headache so it does need to be well vented and usually printed on an enclosed printer. Small parts can be OK in ABS in an unenclosed printer, but the larger parts will definitely warp unenclosed.

Nylon....that's a whole different animal. Fumes from Nylon aren't as bad as ABS, but I wouldn't recommend breathing them for long periods. You need to print it in an enclosed printer. It has to be dried really well before use and I mean like if you don't use it for a few days you need to dry it before use. Supports are a royal pain in the rear with nylon so you need to increase Z distance for interface layers. Nylon is very frustrating to print with especially if you want any kind of detail out of it. At least that is my experience with it. I use nylon for hubs and some suspension parts, but I think tracks will turn out pretty bad as it tends to string a lot.

I've done tracks in ABS, ASA (don't really recommend), PETG, Toughness resin and ABS like resin. Most of them have held up decently well. I always print extra links just in case and I have broken at least a few of each kind I've printed. I don't use paperclips for pins though like Inkor suggests. I usually buy 0.9mm spring steel rods and cut them to length.