RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I got the motors installed with their 25 pitch chain sprockets. Mounts test fitted without the motors also.



A quick test fit of the motors on the mounts before making stuff permanent.





I did eventually cut the length down as the shafts didn't need to be that long. Drive chains installed and the upper bracing on the motors was installed. It basically ties them together. We will have to see how well it works. I can always separate them and brace them to the sides of the hull if needed.



On to the track tensioner. I didn't think the plastic would hold up so I decided to make one where the majority of the stress was put on metal parts. I found an M6 machine threaded eyebolt. I combined it with an M6 standoff or coupling nut leaving enough threads at the other end for another M6 cap head screw. It pretty much mimics the original design only eliminating the spring the designer had in there and replacing stuff with metal. It still retains the orignal look and the fake tensioner arm that I drilled hole in so that I could adjust the tensioner through it.







Here is the range of moment and the final look







So in the last few days it's gone from this...



To this...



To this...



She's basically ready for the idlers and wheels to go back on once the painting is complete. The return rollers have TPU covers over them so they can be painted with the chassis.

You folks are all caught up. I did a real quick beauty shot earlier in the week just to show off a little before tearing into do the motors and idler.







Now, that's all for now...

It is a superb job and it is massive!

How is the track tension mechanism working? I thought about something similar, but with a nut instead of a washer.

Art Hogus wrote: ↑Wed Oct 22, 2025 10:38 am How is the track tension mechanism working? I thought about something similar, but with a nut instead of a washer.

With the way this one is setup, when the M6 cap head screw is screws in, it will pull the arm close which will increase the track tension. Unscrewing it will of course loosen the track tension. There is a washer in the middle of the tensioner that keeps the M6 screw threads threaded through the mount. It keeps the screw and the coupling nut from moving around in there. The arm itself that holds the idler is on a slight offset so when the arm tightens, it moves outward. When it loosens it moves inward. You can see the pivot point in the close pics of the idler arm. There is a round section behind it that it pivots on. The round coupling nut in this case is a nut the way you would be using.

Wow thats awesome progress your making on this mate