MrChef wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2024 5:57 am
LordLudikrous,
How did this project come out on your end? I'm in the process of putting a swap from TorroV3 over to TK7.0. I happened upon a whole kit from Toucan RC that offers quite a package for $85.
https://www.toucanhobby.com/products/hl ... 9612003578
"The Package Includes:
Full Set Cables Converted to TK-7.0 Ver
Remote Controller and TK7.0 Mainboard (Leopard2A6 M1A2 & Sound / Tiger I & T90 Effect)
TK70 Infrared Combating System
Smoke Unit
Speaker"
Now I just need to find a patient resident electronics smarty pants to give me some solid guidance.
Hi MrChef, sorry its taken me so long to reply, but the 7.1 units only came back into stock in the UK late last week and I’ve completed the work over the weekend. The upgrade/swap was 100% successful with zero loss of any kind of functionality. I should point out that mine was an airsoft tank with recoil, and so I cannot comment on the IR version without servos.
However finding information was very difficult, the search terms are so common its impossible to search this forum effectively, and Google search brings up a lot of old and outdated information. I’m going to write out here the more pertinent points here in the hope anyone else wanting to do the same thing will find this helpful.
A few bits to point out first:
• This is specifically a Taigen V2 with airsoft and servo recoil going to a Heng Long 7.1 MFU. Presumably a V3 will be exactly the same but I cannot comment on the HL 6.1 or any other variants.
• The Taigen recoil servo is plug and play with the 7.1. It will not work with the 7.0 board as that has no servo support. If you have Taigen Servo recoil,
get the 7.1 not the 7.0.
• You will need to rewire just about everything. Soldering skills are a must. Most rewiring will involve changing from 3 pin to 2 pin connectors. The 7.1 comes with enough wires to allow for colour coding turret components.
• Test each individual component before reassembling the turret.
• The servo control daughterboard, upper hull daughterboard, airsoft killswitch and volume control do not function with the 7.1 and will be discarded.
• For some peculiar reason the polarities for just about everything were reversed. If something doesn’t work or works the wrong way round, reverse the polarity.
• The turret elevation motor will allow the same up/down control as a normal HL tank, but if you hold the stick down long enough at max elevation/depression it will cycle round and the controls will become inverted. If this happens just keep holding it down until it cycles back to normal. If you’ve ever driven a reach truck you’ll be familiar with this.
• I had to ditch my smoker as it was a Tarr model not compatible with the 7.1. I would recommend getting one of the better HL smokers. I opted to upgrade the speaker but I don’t see why the Taigen one wouldn’t work.
• I recommend lengthening the wires for all upper hull and turret components. As the upper hull board and 8 pin connection no longer exist this will make opening the tank easier.
OK, now for the specific things you’ll need to do:
•
Power Switch – The 7.1 does not come with a power switch. You can re-use the Taigen one but you’ll need to remove the leads that run to the battery connection. You can also snip off the wires that branch off for the Taigen recoil system. Plug into
CN1.
•
Gearboxes – The 7.1 comes with wires with bullet connectors. Desolder the original wires and replace with the new ones. You may need to plug red to black/vice versa due to the polarity.
•
Turret Rotation – Works without any modification but the wrong way round. Recommend resoldering with reversed polarity and lengthening the wire. Plug into
CN3.
•
Machine Gun – Needs to be rewired with a black LED connector – included with the 7.1. If it doesn’t work the polarity is likely reversed, unplug and plug back in the opposite way round. Plug into
LED5.
• Disassemble the turret.
• Except for the servo wires, cut all wires leading to and from the servo control module and killswitch. These components will be discarded, and all turret components will be on separate circuits.
•
Gun Recoil – Cut away the heatshrink around the Taigen servo module and unplug the servo connector. This will plug straight into the 7.1 board, though you may wish to lengthen the wiring. If the recoil is working the wrong way round as mine did (firing extends then retracts the gun), press button
K1 on the board. Plug into servo
CH1.
•
Gun Elevation – This will need to be changed from a 3 pin to 2 pin connection. Don’t worry about the polarity; if inverted hold up/down until it cycles around to normal. Plug into
CN4.
•
Warning LED – Cut wires leading to the airsoft motor and rewire with the provided LED lead/connection. Plug into
LED2.
•
Airsoft Motor – Rewire to 2 pin connection. Wires leading to any other components can be cut. Plug into
CN10.
•
Airsoft Trigger – The only turret component aside from the servo that doesn’t need rewiring. Plug into
CN6.
• You will need to switch the airsoft function on by pressing G+B on the HL transmitter. By default the tank will fire and engage just the servo recoil.
This is an idea of how the wiring will look once everything is plugged in and working.
This is the finished result.
Ultimately, I highly recommend doing this if you have a Taigen board. The V2 in my case was comically out of date and the 7.1 is superior in every respect. While the Taigen boards might have a sound card more suited for a specific tank, the superior implementation and scaling of sound with the HL is more than enough to make up for any inaccuracies.
) While I still prefer the sound modules of the Taigen V3, 
Taigen/Torro needs get up to date on the rest. The 7.0, 7.1 HengLong boards have quite respectable sound for a Tiger (or close enough for any of the other Maybach engines). The low speed control is great. Even the TongDe boards seem to offer better control. 