RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I think I'll leave a tag in the titles that will make it clear what model I'm writing about. it just so happens that I'm collecting 4 at once.
But in the case of the puma, there are more questions than answers. and I'm also trying to find parts to replace some of the elements. so the construction is almost at a standstill.
I also burned the elmod puma board by connecting it via usb to my macbook.


#painting
There are questions about the paint job:
was ausf d gray? or only yellow?
ivory interior?
and what basic colors are more realistic? should i use tamiya ts3?


#251 is the most questionable:
1. tracks
2. attachment of gearboxes to the hull
3. attachment of torsions to wheels. the torsion is steel, but the wheel is plastic.

btw, Derek, did you cut 15mm hole or less like me? (picture below)

but the remodeling experience is very interesting.
I would like the instructions to be a little more detailed.

#234
Whats the better way for cvd? cup cutting or bone cutting?
I found 3 variants on the forum:
viewtopic.php?p=212457#p212457
viewtopic.php?p=312051#p312051
viewtopic.php?p=301157#p301157

Please someone tell me, what should i choose?

reserved

I guess I'm not sure what 15mm hole you are talking about? I did already cut the center out to mount the gearbox and cut it as it showed in the instructions.

tankme wrote: ↑Sat Jun 08, 2024 5:26 am I guess I'm not sure what 15mm hole you are talking about? I did already cut the center out to mount the gearbox and cut it as it showed in the instructions.

I mean hole for sprockets
Not sure it needs to be so big.
I glued all torsions to swingarms. But it holds very bad. What glue should I use?

velthal wrote: ↑Sat Jun 08, 2024 6:36 am I mean hole for sprockets
Not sure it needs to be so big.
I glued all torsions to swingarms. But it holds very bad. What glue should I use?

I just made it big enough to have the sprocket sleeve fit over the shaft and not touch. I used CA to glue the torsion bar to the suspension arm. If you want to strengthen the CA glue to can sprinkle some baking soda on it before it dries. It will instantly harden the glue so put the glue on and sprinkle it over it. You could fill the entire hole on the back of the arm.

tankme wrote: ↑Sat Jun 08, 2024 8:52 pm

velthal wrote: ↑Sat Jun 08, 2024 6:36 am I mean hole for sprockets
Not sure it needs to be so big.
I glued all torsions to swingarms. But it holds very bad. What glue should I use?

I just made it big enough to have the sprocket sleeve fit over the shaft and not touch. I used CA to glue the torsion bar to the suspension arm. If you want to strengthen the CA glue to can sprinkle some baking soda on it before it dries. It will instantly harden the glue so put the glue on and sprinkle it over it. You could fill the entire hole on the back of the arm.

Ty for your advice!
I tried another glue today. From tamiya.
Hope it will work…

My progress in pictures below.


I have two questions:
Clark tk60 - can it use an external esc? I need help with plugging.
#251 was it grey?

Guys, I need help with my elmod.
Every time I connect the elmod to my computer via usb, the fuse blows.
In the same way I burned the elmod puma board.

My algorithm is as follows: I connect the usb to the board then connect the battery.

Also, need help how to connect external esc to elmod fusion pro. How should the power wires from esc and from elmod be connected?
Thanks.

#251
Derek, how are you doing? My torsions still don't hold up well, plus, when putting the car on its wheels, they bend in different directions. Either I have the assembly wrong or the swingarms need to be improved

I know on most boards that are programmed via USB, there is no need to plug in the battery as they get their power from the USB connector during programming. It's like that on my TCB board. I don't have the battery connected when the USB is connected, I'm thinking you are blowing the fuse because you are doubling the power to the board in essence. Maybe someone with an Elmod can comment further.

Sorry, no further advice on the 251 as I haven't finished it or worked on it in like a month.

tankme wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 8:49 pm I know on most boards that are programmed via USB, there is no need to plug in the battery as they get their power from the USB connector during programming. It's like that on my TCB board. I don't have the battery connected when the USB is connected, I'm thinking you are blowing the fuse because you are doubling the power to the board in essence. Maybe someone with an Elmod can comment further.

Sorry, no further advice on the 251 as I haven't finished it or worked on it in like a month.

As I understand it, the board still needs to be powered from the battery.
I had my puma board running on battery power. but as soon as I plugged it into a laptop instead of a desktop computer, it burned up.
So now i don't understand how i can connect fusion pro and not burn it
#251
tamiyas cement also useless for gluing torsions to swingarms. ;( its the one problem left in my building.

#234
Met5, please, answer me about cvd. I need your advice.

One the 251...

I took a look at the instructions. I guess if it were me doing it, I would fill the inside with Miliput and then pin it in place. I however have a Proxxon mini-drill press that would make quick work of drilling the holes. I may have some time this weekend to show you how I would pin it.