RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

The ABC on the tank and transmitter means nothing on the crystal type transmitter its a left over from the previous radio system they didnt update the sticker and you dont normally see it as the label on the crystal covers it over. The ABC on the tank is now the smoker switch thats why it only has 2 positions also the switch on the turret is to turn the BB gun on/off.

Now for stating the obvious the Tx crystal goes in the transmitter while the Rx crystal goes in the tank. The transmitter crystal normally has a black plastic surround to go with it to help locate it into its hole you dont seem to have this so you need to make sure the transmitter crystal pins are locating in the holes as it can miss them and slot between the plastic and hole.

To start the tank i think you need to press the key button.

If you cant get it running with what you have and want to get it running dont try to fix the old system as you will end up spending more than it is to replace it with a 7.0 board and transmitter

Tiger6 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 11:00 pm just to confirm - you did press the little button next to the one maked G on the controller? You have to press that to start the tank.

What he said, press and hold the one on the left till the flashing light stops flashing.
As for binding, the crystals of the same number is how this older version binds. There is no other way like the 2.4 gig requires.
And sorry, I need to ask this. Are you getting the red light illuminated on the handset? Sometimes the AA batteries can be too tight in there old controllers, which doesn't allow full contact, and sometimes they need moving about till the light comes on.

Hi. The red light is on the transmitter. I've double checked the pins are lined up on the crystals, fully charged battery, antenna fully extended, pressing the key button, asking very nicely to start but still nothing but the flashing headlight

Like you, Wardaddysdaddy, I cannot see anything visibly wrong with the boards in the excellent lower hull photo you have provided. john1970 and Sunjamagunner have given you good advice.

If you decide to update the Tiger a bit (not a bad idea at all), I wonder if your best bet would be to go to one of the earlier HengLong 2.4 Ghz systems, maybe not the latest, but still a big improvement over the old crystal set innards. Many here on RCTW can suggest an inexpensive 2.4 Ghz conversion for HengLong, lead you through it (easy to do and not expensive).

A side note: Just a week or so ago, I opened up one of my older HengLong tanks, a Tauchpanzer I had not looked at for years. I found the RX13 system, crystals and all, but it had metal gears (surprise). I am just going to convert it to more recent electronics. but with a wrinkle: I may want the latest and greatest HengLong electronic. However, because I have mostly Taigen/Torro tanks, I am not as familiar with the newest HengLong electronics, so I am waiting for some tips on changing out to the latest which has some great features, but somewhat different wiring and connectors.

Thank you Herr Dr. Professor. Updating seems like a good option. I'll have to have a good browse and see if I can find any info.

The hardest part of this swap is the old board the wires are soldered in. The new one uses plugs, if you pull the top on the Sherman you'll see them (and it can be used as a guide too).

WoW talk about resurrecting on old girl.

I'm in to see what happens here.

If you do decide to change from analogue to digital you will no longer need the whip aerial ( ai least not in that position), I would not suggest getting a pair of grips on it and pulling
After removing the aerials surplus pcb apply a soldering iron under the aerial until the abs is soft NOW you can pull it out with a pair of grips.

Ecam wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 8:30 am The hardest part of this swap is the old board the wires are soldered in. The new one uses plugs, if you pull the top on the Sherman you'll see them (and it can be used as a guide too).

You absolutely must label each wire with the name of what it does so wrap a small length of masking tape round each wire with the detail written upon it
Depending on the replacement board will decide what type of connectors you will need the good news is they are as cheap as chips on e-bay.

jarndice wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2024 5:41 pm If you do decide to change from analogue to digital you will no longer need the whip aerial ( ai least not in that position), I would not suggest getting a pair of grips on it and pulling
After removing the aerials surplus pcb apply a soldering iron under the aerial until the abs is soft NOW you can pull it out with a pair of grips.

Ohhh yes pulling that metal stump out was a Royal Pain in the a55 for my Panther. Ironically the current Tiger project it just popped off with a slight tug on the vise-grips. Heng Long consistency at its finest.

Never thought of heating it up with a soldering iron to help coax it. Not only did I just learn something new, I also found another use for my new soldering iron. Thanks