RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Good evening, I admire this superb work done without an airbrush, however I have a little trouble understanding how you do the color gradients? Is the blue mask the one used for the paintings in the house? and which in principle, comes off without damage to the layer below?

Yes, indeed, Jofaur86, that blue masking tape is often sold for house painting; however, it works quite well for models, and like our skilled, smart Chef, I keep it ready for use. Along with expensive Tamiya tape for clean lines and tiny surfaces, I use medium-priced Scotch Blue Multisurface Painter's Tape for larger surfaces and clean lines, and even less costly Scotch masking tape for taping down masking paper and all sorts of other purposes.

VonDomenic wrote: ↑Thu Sep 07, 2023 6:20 pm With the right aging and markings, it will be even better!

OOOoooh I have surprises for you Sir!

Jofaur86 wrote: ↑Thu Sep 07, 2023 7:02 pm Good evening, I admire this superb work done without an airbrush, however I have a little trouble understanding how you do the color gradients? Is the blue mask the one used for the paintings in the house? and which in principle, comes off without damage to the layer below?

Good evening Jofaur. Thank you for the kind words.

As Herr Dr. mentioned yes this is masking tape commonly used for home painting. It is usually safe for painted surfaces but still requires attention to make sure it's good. High heat and humidity can affect adhesive sticky transfer. I experienced this only on the barrel and this is the first time I've experienced this.

The color gradient or fade you are asking about is achieved by making a raised edge above where the masking tape edge/line is and placing a few Millimeter raised piece of masking tape. That little distance makes the paint line fade.

Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Fri Sep 08, 2023 6:27 pm Yes, indeed, Jofaur86, that blue masking tape is often sold for house painting; however, it works quite well for models, and like our skilled, smart Chef, I keep it ready for use. Along with expensive Tamiya tape for clean lines and tiny surfaces, I use medium-priced Scotch Blue Multisurface Painter's Tape for larger surfaces and clean lines, and even less costly Scotch masking tape for taping down masking paper and all sorts of other purposes.

I've yet to buy or use Tamiya tape but will consider it when the need arises. I use the plain old Scotch blue because it's cheap, widely available and I've seen several tests of masking tapes and plain old simple Scotch blue does the job.

Thanks for the support Herr Dr.

Shes not all show no go.

Upgrade, Driveshaft bearings. I've always heard of the HL Panther having detracking issues but never experienced them indoors. Well since I've started to let her flex her tracks outside more I thought I'd do a common easy upgrade.

The bearings are 8X12X3.5 flanged sealed. This is a common size for many Heng Long tanks so I picked up a pack of 10 on Ebay.





Here is how they slip on-



Here is the housing they slide into on the Panther-



I added a few dabs of rubber cement to seat them. They are friction fit.

Some wheel, hubcap, sprocket and idler basecoat anyone?



Our friend Jnewboy caught my attention when he posted a video in my Jagdpanther build not too long ago. I was intrigued by his product so I thought this project was perfect to try it out-



Lets see whats what then, just brush it on and wipe it off with a moist wipe to the desired finish and effect-



This is some seriously cool sh1t.









I love doing wheels and tracks anyway but this stuff is crazy easy and fun to use.

You can make it lighter or darker or wipe it completely off if you're not happy and start over. It's acrylic based and non toxic and no smell or odor and has a long working time.

Its good stuff. I used it on my 111 Panther build & I like it.

The color fade or fade you are talking about is achieved by creating a raised edge above where the masking tape edge/line is and placing a piece of masking tape raised a few millimeters. This small distance causes the paint line to disappear.

Hello, and thank you for the answer, I can't visualize the tip well, in my little brain, but I will give it a try, on a piece of cardboard first. Have a nice day

And then we move on to chipping. I have decided that this will be the last time that I attempt Hairspray chipping a la Mike Rinaldi using Tamiya or other Spray Lacquer or Enamel paint. Can it be done? Yes but it is extremely difficult and the results are not as controllable and nowhere near as good as when done with Acrylic. I've done both now and I much prefer Acrylic.

This model was primed as noted earlier with 2 coats of the Red Rustoleum stuff, then 3 coats of the classic TRESemme odorless extra hold hairspray. Then I laid the base coat down, then the camo colors.

Then I went at it with all sorts of sharp instruments that you'd see in an episode of the SAW or Hostel franchises. Brass wire shop brushes got the most workout but I also used a pick, Xacto knife, 400 grit sandpaper, and a new thing I picked up I saw someone use in a video on chipping lacquer, a fiberglass brush.



I also used 1,500 grit wet sandpaper with water on all sharp edges.











Keep your eye on this A55! She gets down and dirty...

Then as you may have noticed I added the unit numbers 213, and other markings then matte clearcoated it with Testors Dullcote.

Thank you for the support guys! I really appeciate it.

Chef