RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Kyoz84 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 11, 2023 3:36 am Excellent work. I'm planning to start printing the 3dprintedtanks.com 1/10 scale sherman. Where did you source your stl files? Also what made you choose ABS and ASA over PETG? from my research its the best material for these tanks.

As Jee said, I got the files on Cults 3D. I originally used ASA because it was more temperature resistant as I live in Texas and I had my SU-152 warp in the sun. For some reason I could get ASA to print much better than PETG on my Qidi iMates printer. The other reason was the ability to glue ASA using acetone. I have since bought a Bambu Labs X1 Carbon and it prints PETG really well. Additionally I found out I could use MEK to glue PETG so now the Hellcat, BMP-1, and IS-4 have all been printed in PETG or PETG-G. Not a typo. Sunlu has some PETG-G that seems to work really well in my printer and it's only like $16 per kilo. I'm hoping I'm not making a mistake printing in PETG. I've been printing the tracks in PLA+, but from what I've been seeing the + doesn't make it any more temperature resistant. I guess if I have any issues with the tracks in the heat I can just reprint them in another material. Once I get my resin printer running I might try the tracks in resin as a guy who makes RC airplane parts has had really good results with 50/50 Siraya Tech Build/Tenacious for strength and heat resistance.

Derek

Ok great. I also just ordered a bambuu x1c. Looking forward to this build. If I can pull off this sherman my next print will be the 1/16 sherman easy8 from cult3d. Ill also look into that PETG.

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Nice to see someone who printed my design of the t26. Still good work and the idea with the bearings in the roadwheels is fantastic

Winterhammermodels wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 9:30 pm Nice to see someone who printed my design of the t26. Still good work and the idea with the bearings in the roadwheels is fantastic

I'm currently looking at ways to separate the bogie sets so that each set mounted to the hull can move independently from the other side. Right now I just have one long piece of brass that spans both sides holding the left/right front and another tube holding the rear left/right. The shafts for the drive sprockets are also using bearings. One on the very outside of the sprocket side and two bearings per side on the motor mount. I also found the gears in steel instead of brass. I guess we will have to see how well those work out. I probably won't put a battle system in this one. It was the first tank I tried to 3D print so a lot of lessons were learned. I'll probably try to drive this one more gingerly than other tanks I have.

Be really good to get hold of one of these once the bugs are ironed out

tankme wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 10:37 pm

Winterhammermodels wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 9:30 pm Nice to see someone who printed my design of the t26. Still good work and the idea with the bearings in the roadwheels is fantastic

I'm currently looking at ways to separate the bogie sets so that each set mounted to the hull can move independently from the other side. Right now I just have one long piece of brass that spans both sides holding the left/right front and another tube holding the rear left/right. The shafts for the drive sprockets are also using bearings. One on the very outside of the sprocket side and two bearings per side on the motor mount. I also found the gears in steel instead of brass. I guess we will have to see how well those work out. I probably won't put a battle system in this one. It was the first tank I tried to 3D print so a lot of lessons were learned. I'll probably try to drive this one more gingerly than other tanks I have.

The boogies could move indipendly. Just Drill the hole of them so that they can move freely. Then put the boogeyclips on the pins and glue the pins in the pipe. I believe i put these parts in one of the update files on my account